Dining with Diplomats

B & B Empire...Brooklyn Day 1

2012-02-02T21:14:00.000-05:00

Today was my first full day working with the staff at B&B Empire in Brooklyn. The cafe is closed for renovations, and the windows are covered. People continuously stop by and ask whether or not we're going out of business. "We're just improving...we'll reopen in few weeks!" I respond.

This morning I spent time with Paul, B& B's head baker, as he taught me about how traditional Montreal bagels are made...with only a few of the best ingredients including King Arthur flour, fresh yeast, eggs, butter (not enough to worry about), and salt.

Mixing the yeast and water

They get shaped by hand and are left to rise.

Bagels resting

Wood ready to go into the oven

Then, they get dipped into a boiling honey bath just before getting put into the 750 degree wood burning oven.

Honey Bath

The finished product - slightly sweet and crunchy exterior with a rich, soft interior

My goal for B & B is to enable them to capitalize on their strengths: the delicious bagels and bialys, the gorgeous and massive wood-burning imported from Montreal, the handmade foods, a passionate and talented barista, and the fabulous location. It won't be long before the same love and passion for quality that make B&B's bagels and coffee distinctive is evident in the cafe's entire menu, interior, and service.

Northern History: Cooking by the Book in New England

2012-01-09T20:42:00.001-05:00

Stavely and Fitzgerald's Book Cover

Think cookbooks are a new craze? They've actually been around since antiquity and became widely popular in the 17th century in the United States. Yesterday, during a lecture for The Culinary Historians of Washington Keith Stavely and Kathleen Fitzgerald shared their impressive and extensive research with our audience.

Here are a couple of surprising facts that I learned:

A 1739 cookbook entitled The Compleat Housewife (it was really spelled that way) offered recipes prepared in the traditional French manner, but also criticized the French kitchen for being too luxurious. This created an American trend of making French style food more accessible for the masses.
It was in 1760 that separate rooms specifically for dining (dining rooms) became popular in the US.
English cooking was popular in America even after the Revolution when new American styles were also introduced.

Biscoitos de Mel, Portuguese Molasses Cookies

At each CHoW meeting, members bring a dish to complement the speaker's topic. I made Biscoitos de Mel, Portuguese Molasses Cookies from David Leite's The New Portuguese Table as a nod to New England's Portuguese community. The cookies were a major hit with family, friends, and the historians!

Recipe:

Ingredients:

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 3/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

pinch of ground fennel

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup sugar

1 large egg

1/4 cup dark molasses

3/4 cup walnut haves and/or whole blanched almonds

Preparation:

1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and crank up the heat to 350F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Whisk together the flour, cinnamon, cloves, fennel, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or with a hand mixer in a large bowl, beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 5 to 7 minutes. Beat in the egg until incorporated, then pour in the molasses. Add the flour mixture and mix on low speed until just combined.

4. Roll generous tablespoons of the dough between your palms and place them 1 1/2 inches apart on the parchment-lined baking sheet. Press a walnut half or almond into each one. Bake until browned around the edges and dry on top. About 15 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Repeat with the rest of the dough.

If you are interested in culinary history and find yourself in the DC area, please consider attending one of the CHoW meetings, they are a lot of fun and free to the public. Here is our 2012 calendar - note that I am the May speaker!

La Ciambella della befana

2012-01-06T10:51:00.001-05:00

La Befana Ornament from my cousin Angela's Christmas tree in Crotone, Italy

Each year at the beginning of January my attention shifts to the Italian tradition of La Befana. I have posted about the historical roots of the holiday which Italian children look forward to the way Americans and others do Santa Claus previously. La Befana is a good witch who not only rewards children for good (and punishes them for bad) behavior on the Eve of Epiphany, but is also capable of "sweeping away" the negative energy from the previous year with her broom. For this reason, many Italians, especially Romans decorate their New Year's table, and Christmas trees with tiny brooms.

My Ciambella Della Befana

My nostalgia for Rome deepens as I remember La Befana, for the Eternal City dedicates a month long festival to her in the Piazza Navona Square each year. Inevitably, my diet for the entire week has been a Roman one - I've been feasting on everything from Suppli (the risotto croquettes stuffed with fresh mozzarella), roasted chicken, fettucine alfredo, and more).

Yesterday, while watching La Prova del Cuoco, my favorite Italian cooking show, I saw the recipe for La Ciambella della befana by TV culinary personality Anna Moroni. A ciambella is a sturdy Italian cake usually made in a fluted or round cake pan. These are super simple, housewife style cakes that are usually started by proofing a little yeast, stirring in all of the other ingredients at once, allowing to rise, and bake. They taste like a cross between pound cake, a plain doughnut, and sweet bread. Because they hold up well, they are usually made to take on trips and for picnics. A thick slice with cappuccino is a great way to start the day. And a thin slice with a little espresso is a perfect afternoon pick me up!

Espresso with a touch of milk frm Caffe Tazza D'oro in Rome

Caimbella Della Befana Recipe:

Ingredients:
For the Cake:
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
1 cup warm milk
3 cups cake flour
3 large eggs
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, soft
1 cup sugar
zest of 1 lemon
zest of 1 orange
For the Glaze:
1 cup confectioners' sugar
juice of 1/2 orange
zest of 1 orange
pinch of almond extract
sprinkles or candied fruit for decoration

Preparation:

Mix yeast and milk together and allow to stand for 5 minutes, or until yeast is frothy.
Mix flour, eggs, butter, sugar, lemon zest, orange zest, and yeast mixture together in a large bowl.
Whisk until smooth (this can be done by hand, or with the aid of a mixer).
When mixture is smooth and light, cover it with a clean kitchen towel and allow to rise for 1 hour.
Pour batter into a 9-inch round or 10-inch fluted baking pan.
Cover and allow to rise for 15 more minutes.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Bake for approximately 30 minutes, or until cake is golden and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean.
Remove from oven and cool completely.
Make glaze by whisking all ingredients together.
Drizzle over the top of cake and serve.

Winter in a Viennese Kitchen

2012-01-03T21:26:00.000-05:00

My friends and family often tease me that the reason I specialize in MeditArabian (Mediterranean & Middle Eastern) cuisine is because my research takes me to warm climates often! The truth is that the winter has always been hard on me. I really suffer in cold temperatures, and often my only escape is baking. During the long Washington winters, you'll often find me in my kitchen with the oven blazing and opera music blaring.

After a few days of testing recipes from The Viennese Kitchen cookbook, winter seems to be slightly more bearable, even for me. The rich photography transports you to elegant cafes where puffy souffles, smooth strudels, and savory crepes are commonplace. Written by mother/daughter duo Maria von Baich and Monica Meehan, the work is based on Tante Hertha's (an early 20th century baroness) personal cookbook.

The Viennese Kitchen is a gastronomic time capsule where food, family stories, and Vienna's history are gracefully connected.Sprinkled with vintage photos and extensive memoir, the work reminds us that even the smallest piece of family history, when combined with treasured recipes, can open up a whole new world to strangers.

Elsa's Apple Slices

Orange Buttercream Torte

I tried the Orange Buttercream Torte and Elsa's Apple Slices. Both were perfect - rich, balanced, sweet, satisfying - just the way family desserts should be. The recipes were accurate and instructions on point. Luckily, there are still 38 baked goods to try in this book - that should take me just about to Valentine's Day. By then, I'll be ready to tackle bigger subjects like the influence of the Ottoman Empire on Austrian cuisine - and Italy's Austrian roots. I'd like to extend a heartfelt thanks to Tante Hertha, Monica Meehan, and Maria von Baich for their heart warming stories, and palette pleasing recipes.

Christmas & Nonna Angela's Fig Cookies

2011-12-23T23:04:00.000-05:00

Petrali or Southern Italian Fig Cookies

Growing up, Petrali, or Fig Cookies from the Southern Italian province of Calabria were an the single most important culinary tradition of Christmas in my household.

Each year, I remember my grandmother meticulously following the same recipe that her mother passed down to her. Making the cookies was a three part project. The first step was to make the the delicious, citrus infused dough. Next, came the traditional filling of figs, nuts, honey, citrus zest enriched with my great grandmother's addition of strawberry jam, dates, cherries, and cinnamon. Last, the dough was rolled out and the cookies got filled and baked.

I'm not sure exactly what made them so special to us. Could it have been the aroma, the flavor, or perhaps the fact that my grandmother was the only one who made them in our area? We never really thought about it, because we were just happy to get them. Even Santa requested Petrali at our house, which is why, my mother explained to me, that we never left him chocolate chip cookies or cut outs like the other kids in my class did.

Nonna Angela baking in 2009

Unfortunately, my nonna wasn't able to make our beloved Fig Cookies this year, so I decided to make them for her. I adapted the recipe slightly to accommodate the ingredients and appliances on the market today. For example, the figs used in the recipe need to be simmered if they are very dry and hard, but there are very tender organic dried figs on the market today which don't require simmering. Also, my grandmother always made her filling in a meat grinder. I used a food processor which gave a much faster, yet slightly smoother result.

Recipe:

For the Dough:

1 cup sugar
1 cup butter, at room temperature
2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon vanilla
4 cups flour
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice, or as needed plus orange zest

For the Filling:

1 pound dried organic white figs*
1 pound dried pitted dates
1 whole orange, zested and juiced
1 whole lemon, zested and juiced
1 pound walnuts or almonds
1 cup honey
1 small jar Maraschino cherries, drained
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup sugar

For the Glaze:

2 tablespoons butter
1 cup confectioners sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
juice and zest of 1/2 orange
sprinkles

Preparation:

*If organic white figs can't be found - substitute any dried figs. Place in a saucepan and cover with water. Simmer, on low heat, until soft, and cut off stems.

Drain figs and place in food processor with dates Add in orange and lemon zest and juice and process.

Add in walnuts, honey, cherries, cinnamon, and sugar. Process until combined.

Roll out the dough until approximately 1'8 - inch thick (like pie dough).

Make strips 4-inches in length across the diameter of the dough (same process as ravioli).

Place a 1 1/2-inch strip of filling in a log across the middle of the strip.

Roll up the dough strip to cover the filling.

Cut cookies with a pizza cutter or knife into 1-inch diagonal pieces.

Preheat oven to 350F degrees.

Place cookies onto well greased or lined baking sheet leaving 1/2-inch in between each one.

Bake for 15-20 minutes or until lightly golden.

Remove from oven and allow to cool.

In the meantime, make a glaze by whisking butter and powdered sugar together. Add in vanilla and orange zest and stir well to incorporate.

Add in orange juice, bit by bit, until you achieve a glaze consistency.

Spoon glaze over cookies as soon as they are cool and top with sprinkles.

Luxor: Where Dreams are Discovered and Luxury Defined

2011-12-21T21:44:00.000-05:00

Do you know where the name Luxor comes from and what it inspired? Here's a hint: the entire modern marketing industry would be suffering without it.

Obelisk at Luxor Temple (The one that stands at Place de la Concorde in Paris comes from here, too)

Luxor comes from the Arabic "Al Uqsor" or "The Palaces" because when the Arabs arrived in Egypt, they believed that all of its ancient temples were palaces. Etymology of the word proves that the word "luxor" was the inspiration for the modern word, luxury.

Luxor Temple: above and below

Webster’s dictionary states that the derivation of the word luxury comes from the Latin word luxus which relates to excess. Webster’s definition includes this notion of excess but also the notion of pleasure and indulgence and the connotation of something that is not necessary.

Luxor's temples provided ease, comfort, pleasure, indulgence, and satisfaction for the current life as well as the afterlife.

Luxor Temple

Temple of Hatshepsut (The only female Pharoah)

Luxor's most noted monuments and temples include The Temple of Karnak, Luxor Temple, Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, Tombs of the Nobles, Habu Temple, Hatshepsut Temple, as well as all of the treasures located in the Luxor Museum.

Habu Temple (Ramses III)

Prior to the revolution last January, 5,000 tourists flocked to Luxor a day, and the city was on its way to becoming the "world's largest open air museum." In the ten months following the revolution, tourism in the city (the only major industry) has come to a screeching halt. Even the most optimistic of locals are worried.

Theban Hills

One of the things I have noticed from my frequent trips to Luxor and researching it's history, is that nothing is new there. With such an impressive past, Luxor has seen it all - including political turmoil and revolutions. The ancient city of Thebes (part of modern Luxor) was proven to have human inhabitants over 500,000 years ago. The residents of ancient Thebes formed the first hunger strike in recorded history. The rulers of countless dynasties attempted to leave their mark in history by completely destroying the memories of their predecessors. Despite all of the drama, Luxor, it's people, and it's monuments live on.

Four of the common denominators in Luxor's history are the ingenuity of its inhabitants, the Nile, folkloric traditions, and the power of dreams.

There are enough Egyptian innovations in Luxor alone to keep you spellbound for a lifetime. For this reason, Modern music, literature, mathematics, science, astronomy, and medicine, have been influenced by ancient Egypt. Jazz, rap, and hip hop music consistently borrow Egyptian themes. Ancient Egyptian and Nubian instruments which played distinctive tunes for secular and religious occasions.

Share the Mic collaboration between American and Egyptian musicians at Luxor Temple

The ancient Egyptians had three writing styles including Hieroglyphic, Hieratic, and Demotic. Egyptian literature was scientific, secular, and religious. It comprised moral and educational treatises. It was in this part of Egypt in 4,000 year BCE that literature was developed. The people of ancient Luxor wrote, read, possessed, and loved books.Egyptian literature was scientific, secular, and religious. It comprised moral and educational treatises; state-papers; works on geometry, medicine, astronomy, and magic; travels, tales, fables, heroic poems, love-songs, and essays in the form of letters; hymns, dirges, rituals; and last, not least, that extraordinary collection of prayers, invocations, and religious formulæ known as The Book of the Dead.

Seshat - Godess of Writing

Advanced mathematics, science, and astronomy were developed in order to build the temples so precisely. Modern archaeologists, architects, and engineers are still amazed by their precision.

According to Homer's Odyssey: “The Egyptians were skilled in medicine more than any other art“ Hippocrates (the "father of medicine"), and many others, studied at the temple of Amenhotep, and acknowledged the contribution of ancient Egyptian medicine to Greek medicine.

Luxor, which gets less hits on the internet than the famous Las Vegas hotel which bears it's name, contains roots that spread to all depths of the globe. As the chairperson of The Baltimore Luxor Alexandria Sister City Committee, I have the opportunity to visit often. I am consistently awe-struck by not only the beauty of the place, magnitude of the monuments, and the kindness of the people, but of the knowledge that we still need to discover here.

Dinner with new Luxor Governor Dr. Ezzat Saad and Luxor Baltimore Sister City Committee

If you are planning a trip to Luxor anytime soon - I highly recommend the following day itinerary:

1. Start your day with breakfast and a cappuccino at the Winter Palace Hotel. Built in 1886, and home to many royal visits, it bridges the gap from ancient to modern luxury.

Winter Palace Hotel

2. Tour Luxor Temple and the Luxor Museum.

3. Head to El Kababgy for lunch. You'll enjoy spectacular views of the Nile in a location that has hosted the likes of Princess Diana, Nicholas Sarkozy and Carla Bruni, Sheikha Moza (the first lady of Bahrain), to name a few. The kabobs are, in my opinion, the best in Egypt. My favorite is the Shish Tawook (marinated chicken kabobs with tomatoes and peppers).

Lunch at El Kababgy Restaurant with Dr. Amira Mohsen, Actor Jamal Suleiman, and friends

4. Take a late afternoon/sunset felucca ride down the Nile and stop at Banana Island. The Nile used to flood twice annually and provide sustenance to the entire region. A Nile god named Hapi was worshiped in order to encourage an abundant supply. While the Nile still continues to be an important source of irrigation, it also provides beautiful scenery and touristic cruise opportunities.

Banana Island

5. Do some shopping and learn about traditional handicrafts at The Urban Center for Women

Traditional Khameya Embroirdery

Hand Engraved Copper and Brass

Traditionally Woven Rugs

6. Enjoy dinner at the Nubian Village. Luxor is home to 50,000 Nubians and this open air museum does a wonderful job of translating their culture.

7. After dinner, go back to the Corniche for drinks at the Metropolitan Cafe. It is here that I have done some of my most inspired writing and met wonderful local friends.

Dreams were very important in ancient Egypt. Rulers could often justify their ascension to the throne by telling the citizens that they dreamed of being related to royalty. Ancient Egyptians believed they could communicate with the gods, heal illnesses, and interpret the future while dreaming. The current lapse in tourism provides us the perfect opportunity to convey the unearthed gems of wisdom to the world. If we are able to keep our dreams and visions as clear as the ancients did while working diligently, we should exceed our own expectations, as well as that of the international community in no time.

Happy Birthday, UAE!!!

2011-12-04T06:34:00.001-05:00

December 2 marked National Day in the UAE - and this year the young nation celebrated its 40th birthday. I took advantage of my recent time at the Sharjah International Bookfair to visit Dubai, and had a fantastic time!

Like New York, Dubai really offers its dwellers and visitors a taste of the best the world has to offer. So much so, that many visitors find it difficult to find "local flavors." For those of you on a short day visit, here check out Al Fanar in Dubai Festival City.

The restaurant is modelled after a tawash, or the traditional home of a wealthy pearl trader (pearl trading was an important industry until cultivated pearls were developed in the eary 20th century). Machboos (rice and meat dish), Salona (chicken and rice with hard boiled eggs) , Jasheed (cracked wheat simmered with spices, clarified butter and chili peppers) and dozens of other dishes are featured on the menu. Recipes for each of these dishes can be found in my first cookbook: Arabian Delights: Recipes and Princely Entertaining Ideas from the Arabian Peninsula.

For those of you who don't mind "living like the locals" - flock to the malls, enjoy "foreign" food, and learn to ski or ice skate in the desert. These contradictions are what give the city its own unique flavor. A child of the 1970's, Dubai never new old fashioned down-towns or characteristic neighborhoods. Mall hopping is an important, guilt-free part of the social scene!

Dubai Skyline

The Gold Souk in the Mall of Dubai

Some of the things I enjoyed seeing were the attention to detail that went into making Italian and French pastries. Many people seek out the proper, traditional method instead of taking shortcuts. The Macarons in Dubai taste unmistakably similar to those in Paris, and you can also find Bomboloni (Italian doughnuts) just like those in Italy.

When I joined my friend Rashael Haddad for lunch at the More Cafe - we learned that the restaurant really lived up to it's name. Here's our order of Mousse au Chocolat - already extremely decadent on its own, served with chocolate sauce and ice cream!

The Borj al Khalifa Tower next to Dubai Mall

Indoor skiing at Mall of the Emirates

I left Dubai feeling completely inspired and invigorated. New ideas, cultures, and flavors are celebrated and appreciated on a daily basis here. It's amazing what we can accomplish in 40 years with great vision, leadership, motivation, talent, and hard work!!! Happy Birthday UAE!!!

Ashoora, Pudding, and Peace

2011-12-01T14:33:00.001-05:00

This Monday, December 5, 2011 marks the tenth day of Muharam, the first month of the Islamic calendar. This holiday is known as Ashoora (sometimes spelled Ashura in English). Ashoora is a special day to Egyptian Jews, Christians, and Muslims (although it is remembered by each group on different dates). Sunni Muslims are encouraged to fast on Ashoora because the holiday commemorates God saving the Prophet Moses and the Jewish people from the tyranny of Pharaoh. The Prophet Mohamed recommended that Muslims fast the day before or the day after ashoora as well. After the fast, families congregate for a communal meal, including a wheat berry pudding called Ashoora as well. In Turkish, this pudding is known as Noah's Pudding and is seen as a symbol of cross-religious peace.

*Recipe from Nile Style: Egyptian Cuisine and Culture

(Click here to download a free Kindle copy by December 2)

Ashoora Wheat Pudding /Ashoora

4 Servings

Ingredients:

1 cup whole wheat berries*, rinsed

1/2 cup sugar or honey, or to taste

1 cup warm milk

1 tablespoon cornstarch

Handful of raisins

1 teaspoon roasted peanuts, unsalted, chopped

1 teaspoon slivered almonds

1 teaspoon walnuts, chopped

1 teaspoon dried coconut

Preparation:

Eight hours or the night before serving, place whole grain in a large thermos and cover with boiling water. The next morning, the wheat will be puffed and tender. In a medium bowl, combine sugar or honey, milk, and corn starch together. Place cornstarch mixture and milk mixture in a medium saucepan over medium heat and stir to combine. Increase heat to high and boil, stirring, for 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low, and cook until pudding has thickened. Taste, and adjust sugar, if necessary. Stir in raisins and distribute into 4 dessert bowls.

Mix peanuts, almonds, walnuts, and coconut together and sprinkle on top of pudding. Serve warm.

· Wheat berries can be purchased at organic, Middle Eastern, and healthfood stores.

Sharjah: The Cultural Pearl of the UAE

2011-11-23T07:33:00.001-05:00

I had the good fortune of spending last week in the UAE. According to my Facebook messages, many people in the US and Europe don't know where that is, so please bear with me as I digress for a moment. UAE stands for United Arab Emirates, it is a small country in the Arabian Gulf - known for it's capital Abu Dhabi, and glitzy Dubai.

This was my second trip to the UAE this year. I attended the Abu Dhabi International Book Fair in March, and now had the chance to attend the Sharjah International Book Fair. Prior to recieving my invitation, I had never heard of Sharjah (spelled shar-i qa in Arabic, but pronounced Sharjah by the locals). When I began looking for info online and in travel guides, the results weren't very exciting. Labeled a "dry" town since alcohol is prohibited within the city limits, many tourists avoid it like the plague for fear that it is a city full of religious fanatics -but it is not.

Sharjah is a city full of proud people who love their ancient culture, religion, and young nation. On any given day, there are over 140 different nationalities working together - and "cultural awareness" takes on a whole new meaning. Locals are used to working and living with foreigners.

Sharjah's vibe is young and energetic full of dreams and aspirations for tomorrow as its citizens work to carve out a niche for themselves. I can't help but think that this must be how it felt to be in the United States during its development.

When I arrived, I found these flowers awaiting me in the hotel room.
This was the view from the balcony of Sharjah overlooking the lagoon.

These two pictures were taken inside the Sharjah Museum of Islamic Civilization.

We enjoyed a tour and a lovely dinner inside. Fellow cookbook author Sophie Grey is featured on my left.

My friend Chef Robert Arbor and I walked back to the hotel from the museum and found a myriad of Persian delights awaiting for us - everything from beautifully displayed nuts and spices (including crates full of bright red quality saffron) and restaurants. One of the guides who escorted me from the Ministry of Culture said that many Emirati families (like his) have Persian origins and that the close physical proximity to Iran makes it's spectacular cuisine popular in the way that Mexican food abounds in the Southwestern United States.

The people of Sharjah are completely clear on what it is, and what it isn't. It doesn't aspire to be as cosmopolitan as Dubai, or as powerful as Abu Dhabi. While it could settle on being a sleepy suburb offering close proximity and more convenience than Dubai - it has declared itself the UAE's cultural capital. Boasting numerous museums, universities, cultural centers, and a convention center with international exhibitions, Sharjah's vision is easy to understand.

These cookies are made to celebrate the UAE's 40th birthday on December 2nd. This national holiday is hugely popular - and people begin celebrating it a month early! They even have a special cologne called "December 2"! I love the combination of new construction and traditional dwellings - the juxtaposition of desert and water, the friendliness of the locals, the parks, and the ability to stroll on the streets in the evenings. One of the best places to witness this attitude is in Al Qasba, the new (but made to feel old) neighborhood below.

We ate dinner at the Shababeek (meaning "windows" in Arabic) restaurant which had a modern Arabesque vibe and featured delicious Lebanese appetizers, kabobs and rice for the main course. Dessert (featured above) consisted of creamy milk pudding with orange blossom petals and pistachios as a garnish and Kallaj which are a special kind of pastry that resembles a cross between phyllo dough and a crepe and filled with Qishta (homemade sweetened clotted cream).

The next day we got an early start to visit UAE's East coast. We passed Al Dhaid (an oasis town) and the Hajar Mountains. We also passed into the country of Oman which has been a long time dream of mine. At the border, there wasn't a remarkable difference between the two countries, other than their flags.

As with other Middle Eastern areas, many tribes shared bloodlines and land long before modern national borders were established, paving way for strong cultural, political, and culinary ties. As we drove inside Oman we noticed that the mosques were stark white (reminiscent of the Greek isles) with bright blue domes like the water. The gulf of Oman is beautiful and home to many types of seafood including shrimp, crab, eel, prawns, and hundreds of species of fish.

We got to visit Fort Nizwa - one of the most impressive of all the Omani forts which was destroyed and then rebuilt again.

Since November is National Diabetes Awareness Month in UAE, and there are unfortunatley many people struggling to achieve a healthy lifestyle, I was asked to give a lecture to the students at Sharjah Women's College.

They gave me this beautiful drawing of a man's hands playing a traditional wooden instrument.

Back at the fair, which was my main reason for going to UAE in the first place, I gave 3 different cooking demos, all focused on healthful Mediterranean Cuisine. Chef Majid (a local TV celebrity,author, and prominent chef) presented all of the guest chefs.

I demonstrated breads including Moroccan, focaccia, and fougasse on the first day. On the second day, my friend Chef Robert and I demonstrated the French and Italian ways of making chicken and vegetables. He made French style chicken and ratatouille while I made Italian style chicken and caponata. We discussed the similarities and common roots between French and Italian cooking styles.

Our colleague Sophie Grey demonstrated sweets from her bakery and Whoopie pies from her latest book...we had so much fun that we decided next year we would turn our duo into a trio!
Sophie's sweets are truly fantastic. After a long day in the sun and touring Oman, by the time we arrived back to Sharjah for our evening demos I was feeling hungry, tired, and faint. Luckily, Sophie made extras and I was quickly revived with the energy I needed to carry on with my own demo.

The next night we had dinner in the dessert. Here are two traditional teapots which were actually used to brew Arabian coffee. With it's light hue and cardamom aroma, many people mistake Arabian coffee for tea. In traditional Emirati culture, guests are greeted with coffee, dates, and incense steam. This is a different from other gulf cultures, such as Saudi, where the passing of the incense sensor usually denotes the end of the meal and is a signal for guests to leave.

A local dessert tribal dance video:

Traditional bread called Khubz Rukhal:

Below are some of the appetizers that awaited us during our desert dinner. Overall, it was a fantastic trip - one that combined professional responsibilities with the opportunity for new personal relationships and an enormous amount of culture. I can't wait to return!

Anglo Saxon Culinary Expressions

2011-11-07T15:16:00.001-05:00

I had a lot of fun lecturing on "Anglo Saxon Culinary Expressions: A Cultural Odyssey" at National Geographic in Washington, DC yesterday. I would like to thank all of the attendees for sharing their Sunday afternoon with me. My mission was to provide a food anthropologist's look into the Anglo Saxon world. Why Anglo Saxon?

The National Geographic is hosting a stunning new collection of gold from England that was discovered by an amateur a few years ago! Per National Geographic:

"On July 5th 2009, Terry Herbert, a metal detector enthusiast, discovered the largest collection of Anglo-Saxon gold ever found. From farmland near Lichfield in Staffordshire, England, Terry and a team of archaeologists unearthed more than 3,500 pieces from hundreds of individual objects dating to about 650 A.D. Valued at close to $5 million, the hoard includes exquisitely crafted artifacts, most of which are military in nature.
More than 100 of these artifacts will be on exhibition at the National Geographic Museum including elaborate gold and garnet sword fittings, decorative elements for helmets, crosses, and a gold strip bearing a Latin inscription from the Bible."

The exhibit is magnificent - not only from the standpoint of its financial worth and beauty, but from the new glimpse it offers into the Anglo Saxon world. Who knew, for example, that the Anglo Saxons imported garnets from Northern India and procured gold from skilled artisans in Bohemia?

These new findings led me on a quest to discover more about Anglo Saxon cuisine. What I learned is that the Anglo Saxons had their own route to India for spices! As early as the 6-8th centuries CE, the Anglo Saxons had access to mace, cinnamon, ginger, pepper, and cloves! The above map shows the famed Silk Route in orange and the alternate trade route that the Anglo Saxons used a few centuries later. They would traverse Europe, stop in Alexandria Egypt (for black pepper, I believe), and then head through Yemen and cross the Arabian Sea to Southern India where the rest of their spices could be procured

The exhibit teaches us that the Anglo Saxons refused to use Roman stone dwellings and living styles. They preferred their own wooden style homes instead. It is amazing to learn that while they rejected some Roman ideas, they did follow in the footsteps of the Roman by using their trading routes!

They ate many of the same things we do including salmon, trout, herring, meats, poultry, and fowl. They drank apple cider and ale. A few recipes, such as that of salt-curing salmon and making shortbread have changed very little over the ages.

This exhibit reminded me that culinary history is ever-changing. Every archaeological discover provides us with clues that we can use to better understand our predecessors. What fascinates me the most, is finding just how similar they were to us, and that "globalism" is nothing new.

Here are the recipes I demonstrated:

House Cured Salmon

One (2 pound) salmon fillet, skin off

¼ cup Kosher salt

¼ cup sugar

1-2 bunches fresh dill

2 tsps freshly cracked black pepper

Preparation:

Rub the salmon fillet all over with the salt and sugar, and sprinkle with the pepper.

Place half of the dill in glass or or other non reactive container, big enough to hold the salmon flat (it can be cut into pieces to fit as necessary), lay the salmon on the dill, and cover with the other half of the dill. Cover with plastic wrap, and place something heavy on the top, to compress the salmon.

Let it sit in the fridge for 2 days, draining the water that collects off once. Check to see if the salmon is finished after 2 days. The texture will change, and become denser, and it will look like smoked salmon when finished. If it is not all the way through cured, give it one more day of curing.

Wash off the salt and sugar, and slice as thinly as possible, with a very sharp knife.

Honey Shortbread

The original form of Shortbread was leftover bread that was dried out and placed back into the oven to toast. Over the years, yeast in bread recipes was replaced with butter and honey, and traditional short bread was developed. This is an early Medieval recipe.

This is easy to make and very tasty.

Serves 10

Ingredients:

1 cup plain or whole wheat flour

¼ cup cornmeal (this is not traditional since England didn’t have cornmeal until much later)

¾ cup unsalted butter, soft

½ cup honey

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 325F degrees.

Mix the ingredients together until they form a dough ball.

Spoon the mixture into an 8-inch baking dish and press it down well with wet hands.

Bake for 30-35 minutes or until golden brown.

Cool for 10 minutes then cut into fingers while still warm and serve when cold.

Traditional Scottish Shortbread

This recipe would have come much later once rice and finely ground sugar were available and spices could be afforded by middle classes (19^th century is likely).

Ingredients

1/2 cup flour, sifted

1/4 cup rice flour

1/4 cup sugar

1 pinch salt

1/2 cup butter, softened

Preparation:

Combine flours, sugar and salt in a mixing bowl.

Work in butter until dough has the consistency of pie crust.

Sprinkle board with rice flour.

Turn dough onto board and knead until smooth.

Divide into four portions and shape into small rounds.

Place in an 8-inch tin and prick the top with a fork.

Bake at 350 degrees for 20 to 30 minutes, until cakes begin to brown slightly.

Allow to cool in pan and cut into slices.

Ossa dei Morti & Italy's Day of the Dead

2011-11-01T10:45:00.000-04:00

Mexico's "Day of the Dead" celebrations are famous all over the world. Italy's regional versions of the ancient ritual, however, not so much

From October 31-November 2 each year - Italians celebrate the Christian holiday All Saint's Day. A traditional sweet prepared in many regional bakeries are Ossa dei Morti (Bones of the Dead) and Il Pane dei Morti (Bread of the Dead). Eating these sweets in memory of our dead relatives is symbolic of familial love and the cycle of life.

Ossa dei Morti are actually an ancient Roman treat created to celebrate Samain in Northern Europe and Feralia in Rome, held on February 21 to honor the dead and give peace to the departed.

After the advent of Christianity, Pope Boniface III established All Saints Day on May 13, which was a day the Pagans used to venerate the Pantheon.

Later Pope Gregory IV moved All Saints Day to November 1 - the Day after the Samain and the Church dedicated November 2 to the remembrance of the dead, a Memorial Day in Italy.

What I love most about this recipe and holiday is the chance to remember our loved ones while enjoying delicious treats. If I were in their place, I couldn't think of a better memorial service. And, as long as I'm on the planet, I find great joy in knowing that I am preparing these cookies at the same time as my relatives in Italy are. Even if we can't be together each year, we can at least compare notes on Facebook!

This recipe is easy and fun - kids will love making them. Note that the base recipe could have been found in ancient Rome, but that the additions of lemon and almond meal were added after 827AD when the Aghlabids from Tunisia took control of Sicily (prior to this period citrus and almonds weren't cultivated in Italy). The additions of ginger and cinnamon also weren't available until the 10th century when the North African Fatimids took control and established Palermo as their capitol. When stirring the spices into this mix, I am immediately reminded of the Fatimid Kahk cookies that are prepared for the Eid al Fitr in Egypt because they have the same texture and use the same spices!

Ossa dei Morti

Ingredients:
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 lemon, zested
2 extra-large egg whites
1 3/4 cups flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 cup almond flour
1 teaspoon ground cloves
powdered sugar – to dust

Preparation:1. Into the bowl of your stand mixer, add butter and mix until it is creamy. Add sugar, lemon zest, egg whites and continue mixing.

2. Into a separate bowl add: flour, cinnamon, almonds, and cloves. Whisk together.

3. Add in the flour mixture to the wet ingredients in the mixing bowl until a ball has formed. Add a tablespoon or two of lukewarm water if necessary to help form a ball.

4. Wrap your dough in plastic and transfer to the refrigerator to chill for 20 – 30 minutes.

3. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

4. Take small portions of the dough and roll into ropes that are approximately the size of your finger on a lighlty floured surface.

5. Cut into 2 – 3″ sections. Continue until all dough has been rolled and cut. Transfer pieces to a cookie sheet lined lined with parchement papter or a silpat.

6. Bake for approximately 10-15 minutes or until hard and slightly golden.

7. Transfer to a cooling rack and dust lightly with powdered sugar. Store cookies in an airtight container.

Buon Appetito !

Paula Wolfert & The Food of Morocco

2011-10-22T21:22:00.000-04:00

When I embarked on my culinary career, I had one mission in mind: to do for Egyptian cuisine what Paula Wolfert has done for Moroccan cuisine. For years, I've revered Paula as being the person who introduced Americans to Moroccan cuisine the way that Julia Child introduced us to French cuisine. With her latest book, The Food of Morocco, however, Paula proves to have done much more than that.

Unlike French cuisine which had already been preserved in countless cookbooks, promoted by culinary ambassadors like Escoffier, and categorized by 19th century chefs like Careme, Moroccan cuisine (like many others in North Africa and the Middle East) was once accessible to those who ate it and prepared it on a daily basis, ie., the Moroccans.

Decades ago, Paula Wolfert set out to change that. She painstakingly recorded and interpreted recipes which were normally transmitted orally. She researched not only the cultural relevance of the dishes, but how Americans could make them in their homes. It is thanks to Paula that we have couscous on our supermarket shelves and tajines in our kitchens. With The Food of Morocco, she gives us even more incentive to use them.

Receiving this book in the mail made me feel like shutting myself off from the world and taking an armchair tour of one of the world's most resplendent countries with Paula as my guide. The Food of Morocco sets a new standard for cookbooks. With beautiful photographs of food, people, and places, one can find inspiration just by flipping through the pages. I particularly love the proverbs and artwork which help to align the reader with the Moroccan psyche before they begin cooking.

Paula's foresight in creating a Moroccan culinary map is ingenious. Surely groves of foreigners will use Paula as a guide when conducting their own food pilgrimages to Morocco. They will also benefit from learning about each of the land's cultural groups (Berbers, Jews, Muslims, and Arabs) and how they created such a fascinating culinary landscape.

The well researched and unique collection of recipes transform "ethnic" Moroccan cuisine into "what's for dinner". Good cookbook authors tell readers what they know. Great cookbook authors tell them how they learned it. Reading Paula's headers which describe how she learned to create the dishes and perfect them...it's as if she's passing on 40 years of knowledge directly to me....and I can pick up where she left off. The only thing missing from The Food of Morocco is a two week vacation which I would use to immerse myself in it.

A Chance Meeting with Turkish Culinary Greats

2011-10-04T22:18:00.002-04:00

Today I had a late lunch (that's 2pm in Washington) with some friends at Kazan Restaurant in Mclean. I've had the pleasure of dining at Kazan many times with my friend Sheilah Kaufman who befriended the owner Zeynel Uzun, while she was writing her first Turkish cookbook.

(Chef Nacip, left, Sheilah Kaufman, Dr. Phyllis Kaplan, right, me, Zeynel Uzun)

I was running late and we arrived at Kazan's at 2:30 only to find out that the kitchen was already closed! The three of us had been looking forward to eating there for a month, so the idea of driving back to Maryland with empty stomachs, or thinking of going to another restaurant was not very appetizing. Luckily, Zeynel and our friend Cemal, came out of the kitchen, seated us, and treaded us to an array of mezze worthy of sultans.

When he was free, Zeynel joined us for lunch and told us about his days working in Topkapi Palace with Turkey's legendary chef - Necip Erturk. Then, like magic, Chef Necip appeared! Turns out he is Zeynel's house guest and will be in Washington for the next two weeks!

Chef Necip in the early days of his career along with one of his cookbooks (below).

With dozens of gold and silver medals for cuisine under his belt, the eighty year old shared his secrets and memories with us. "I do not care about the names of dishes, " he said. "I care about what's on the plate." While that might not seem like a revolutionary statement for a contemporary chef, for a Turkish chef - trained in a palace it's almost unheard of.

The Ottomans were especially fond of elaboratley (and seductively) named dishes such as Nightingale's Nests, Veiled Rice, and Sweet Lips. Chef Necip, on the other hand, prefers more of the contemporary style of naming dishes where the ingredients are listed instead individually. Regardless of what they are called, each of the recipes prepared at Kazan is steeped in history, good taste, and tradition. For those of you in the Washington area, don't miss this Sunday's Culinary Historians of Washington meeting - I've invited Chef Necip -and hope to introduce him as our guest of honor.

Chicago: Food, Charm, & Style

2011-10-03T20:06:00.000-04:00

"You can resist good looks....but you can't resist charm...it's the lethal weapon," said Audrey Tatou in the French movie Priceless. Chicago has a lot of charm. With great food, friendly attitudes, and scores of architectural marvels and design centers, it's hard not to catch the spirit!

Chipotle held a Cultivate Festival for free to celebrate food, ideas, and music "that brings together farmers chefs, thought leaders, artists, musicians, and participants" to create a more sustainable food future. T-shirt painting (above), Demos by chefs like Amanda Freitag (below), farm stands, vendors, and Chipotle products were the most popular.

Here are some places you might went to check out on your next trip to the Windy City....

The view from the 95th floor of the John Hancock Building....You can go a few floors up and pay $15 a person to take photos from the "Observation Deck" or you can enjoy a great lunch for the same price from The Signature Room.

Start your day on N. Wabash Avenue which is walking distance from Michigan Avenue's Magnificent Mile. Explore the great designer home furnishing shops like Jonathan Adler's and Material Possessions....a distinctive collection of plates and table ware can be found at both.

A quick cappuccino and collection of Sicilian cookies will give you the sustenance you need to make it through your day. We stumbled on "L'appetito"...a Chicago institution which serves up Sicilian-American versions of cookies that my Calabrian family reserves for Christmas alone on a daily basis. Fig, chocolate spice, amaretti, butter sandwich cookies are just a few. In my opinion, one of these could tern even the worst of days into a holiday and make me yearn for the days when my Nonna and I would bake together. Interestingly, although these cookies look identical to the ones we make - their flavor was different. We use cloves, for example, in our chocolate cookies, where L'appetito clearly used nutmeg. Their fig cookies were missing my great grandmother's signature cherries and citrus zest. Overall, however, they were delicious and enjoying them reminded me once again how our recipes and culinary lineage influence our sense of taste and celebration.

It doesn't take a lot to make me cold - and a brisk, 50 degree rainy day makes me shiver. Luckily, Rick Bayless' XOCO serves up warm, hearty authentic Mexican street food. To wash it all down...sweet chocolate drinks made from freshly roasted and ground cocoa beans, almonds, and spices and a serving of Churros y Chocolate!

You can walk off the calories by heading down to the River Walk.

Serendipity stepped in once again when we decided to exit the metro at the Roosevelt Station instead of the Chicago stop due to a medical emergency causing major delays. The Bongo Room has the best breakfast I've had in a while. Served in a cute location with a good mix of locals and tourists, you can feast on things like Brioche French Toast with Strawberries and Vanilla Creme Anglaise or Citrus Ricotta Pancakes with Maple Butter. When I couldn't decide what to order - the waitress suggested both - fantastic!

Here are our nephew's Omar, Khalid, and Ali...future foodies who add to the city's charm factor!

Mexico's Mouthwatering Cry of Independence

2011-09-14T18:25:00.003-04:00

September 16th is known as El Grito de la Independencia in Mexico. On September 16, 1810 - the Mexican War of Independence began. This day now marks the most important national holiday in Mexico.

According to Patricia Jinich of the Mexican Cultural Institute in Washington, DC...even the cooking parties have cooking parties to prepare food in the weeks leading up to the event! During her lecture to The Culinary Historians of Washington, DC, Patricia explained that red, white, and green (the colors of the Mexican flag) are the colors featured in particularly festive dishes eaten on September 16 each year.

One of her favorites is Chiles En Nogada - a meat, raisin, and nut stuffed chile covered in a creamy fresh walnut sauce and topped with fresh pomegranate seeds. Chiles, Patricia feels, are underappreciated in the US. In Mexico, they are used to give heat, add flavor, as a vegetable and much more. And for those who don't like "hot" food? Patricia suggests soaking chiles in a mixture of hot water and unrefined cane or brown sugar for 10 minutes.

If you happen to find yourself in Mexico on Friday, you won't need my help to celebrate...but if you're here in DC - be sure to check out the Library of Congress lecture entitled "Deciphering the Ancient Art of Maya & the Year 2012" and get your friends together to enjoy a Mexican feast of your own!

Pizza: It's What's For Dinner on Labor Day

2011-09-04T20:56:00.000-04:00

Readers of this blog know how I love the ceremonial aspects of food. As I travel and become influenced by increasing cultures - sometimes holidays overlap and create an opportunity for fantastic fusions. This year in the United States, Labor Day and National Pizza Day (September 5) intersect. If you're bored with barbecue and tired of the usual summer line up...pizza is a fun way to say ciao to summer!

First, a little history... Pizza dough dates back to antiquity and has roots in Egypt, Greece, and Rome. Modern pizza (with a tomato topping) was first served in 18th century Naples, Italy. Using tomatoes which were recently imported from the new world, and traditional buffalo milk mozzarella, modern style pizza was invented.

Pizza Margherita was invented when Queen Margaret visited Naples. Keep in mind that you can double the recipes for pizza dough and sauce and freeze them so that you will have them ready for another occasion. The dough can also be fried into little balls and topped with fried sugar. These are known as pizze fritte, or zeppole in Italian. This dough can also be used to make calzones with the filling of your choice.

Check out my video for this simple method of preparing tomato sauce is the most common in Italy. It can be found in restaurants and homes alike. Serve it alone or in one of its’ many variations.

Traditional Neapolitan Pizza/Pizza Margherita

Makes 1 pizza.

Ingredients:

For the dough:

1 (1/4 ounce) package dry active yeast

1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for work surface

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for bowl

For the Sauce:

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 large garlic cloves, minced

3/4 pound strained (seeded and skinned tomatoes) such as Pomi brand

Salt, to taste

Freshly ground pepper, to taste

4-5 leaves of fresh basil, oregano, or parsley

10 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese

Grated parmigiano reggiano or romano cheese

Preparation:

For the Dough:

Place the yeast in a small bowl and stir in 1/2 cup lukewarm water. Set aside.
Put flour into a large bowl and add yeast to the center.
Add salt and olive oil and stir to combine. Stir to combine and form a dense dough which will be slightly sticky. If dough does not come together, add more water a tablespoon at a time.
Dust a work surface lightly with flour. Knead the dough energetically for 5 to 10 minutes or until it is smooth and supple.
Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with plastic and a clean kitchen cloth. Allow to rise for 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until doubled. In the meantime make the sauce.

For the Sauce:

Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat.
Add garlic and reduce heat to low.
When garlic begins to release its’ aroma (before it turns color), add tomatoes.
Stir and allow mixture to come to a boil.
Add salt, pepper, and fresh herbs, stir and cover.
Reduce heat to low and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes. Allow to cool.

Finishing the Pizza:

When the dough has finished rising, preheat the oven to 500F or 550F degrees.
Punch the dough down and let it rest 5 minutes.
Use a rolling pin to roll it out into a 10 to 12-inch diameter.
Transfer to pizza stone or peel.
Cover with a thin layer of sauce, mozzarella, basil, and a sprinkling of Romano or parmigiano cheese.
Fold edges of crust in and brush lightly with extra olive oil.
Bake on the 2nd to lowest rack for 10 to 15 minutes or until golden and bubbly.
Remove from oven and allow to stand 5 minutes. Cut and serve.

Malaysia: Ramadan's Feast

2011-08-19T17:24:00.000-04:00

Known for "bringing the flavors of far off lands to your kitchen", my friend Susheela Raghavan is an expert on Malay and Indian Muslim cuisine. When I asked her to share some of her Malaysian favorites for Ramadan, she gladly contributed two delcious recipes from her latest cookbook, Flavors of Malaysia, A Journey through Time, Tastes and Traditions. A colorful kaleidoscope of Chinese, Malay, and Indian tastes and flavors, Malaysian cuisine offers something for everyone.

Adapted from Susheela Raghavan's Flavors of Malaysia:

Throughout the year, Malaysians celebrate many religious holidays and festive occasions that reflect their beliefs and culture. One common, significant characteristic of all Malaysian festivities is rumah terbuka or “open house.” Whether the celebration is Malay, Chinese, or Indian, friends and neighbors of other faiths and ethnicities are welcomed into the family home to share the lavish and plentiful festival foods. This year the Muslim holy month of Ramadan coincides with August. The end of the fasting period, on August 31^st, is celebrated Hari Raya Puasa, a joyous occasion for Malaysian Muslims.

Hari Raya Puasa

Hari Raya Aidilfitri, known elsewhere in the Islamic World as Eid al Fitr, and popularly as Hari Raya Puasa in Malaysia, is a major festival for Malays and Indian Muslims. It marks the end of Ramadan, the month of fasting (puasa). Each year, fasting starts in a different month according to the moon and Muslim calendar. It is a joyous occasion for all Muslims, signifying purification and renewal through self restraint. Family members decked in their best attire go to pray at the mosque in the morning, and then visit cemeteries to say prayers for the departed souls of their loved ones. Then they come to their decorated homes, light oil lamps, and open their doors to celebrate and share their foods with relatives, friends, and neighbors. Many Malay and Indian Muslim homes prepare their favorite family recipes, handed down through generations.

Below are two of Susheela's favorites that many Muslim homes prepare for Hari Raya Puasa. Both recipes can be found in Flavors of Malaysia: A Journey through Time, Tastes, and Traditions.

(Spicy Tomato Chicken) Ayam Masak Merah

Ayam masak merah is a traditional favorite with Malays and Indian Muslims in Malaysia. It is prepared for their feasts (kenduris), to celebrate Hari Raya Puasa, weddings, and other festive occasions. Ayam masak merah translates to “red cooked chicken,” from the recipe’s tomato and chile based sauce. Susheela has added some spices to the sauce. It is also a popular accompaniment at many Malay and Indian Muslim nasi campur (‘mixed rice’) stalls. If you don't want to make your own spice blends - don't worry - Susheela sells them on her website.

Makes 4 to 5 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 pound chicken (drumsticks and breast), cut into 1½ to 2-inch pieces

⅛ teaspoon turmeric powder

⅛ teaspoon chile powder

2 to 3 tablespoons cooking oil

⅓ cup tomato puree; or ⅔ cup tomato sauce plus 2 tablespoons tomato paste; or 1 small tomato, finely chopped

2 tablespoons tamarind concentrate or tamarind juice extracted from pulp

2 teaspoons sugar or honey

Optional: ¼ cup unsweetened coconut milk or evaporated milk or regular milk (to replace ¼ cup of the water)

¼ to ½ teaspoon salt

Spice Paste

¼ cup sliced shallots or onions

1 tablespoon chopped garlic cloves

1 heaping teaspoon chopped fresh ginger or fresh or frozen and thawed galangal

1 lemongrass stalk, sliced into ¼-inch to ½-inch pieces

3 dried whole red chilies, steeped in hot water for 5 to 8 minutes, slit and deseeded; or ¾ tablespoon

cili boh (see page 315 ); or 1 teaspoon bottled sambal oelek

¼ cup water

Spice Blend 1

2 cardamom pods

1-inch cinnamon stick

1 or 2 cloves

Spice Blend 2

½ teaspoon ground fennel seeds

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon finely ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS:

1. Rub chicken pieces with turmeric and chile powder and marinate for about 20 to 30 minutes.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a wok or skillet and sauté chicken till brown, or broil or grill for 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside.

3. Process Spice Paste ingredients to a smooth paste and set aside. Combine Spice

Blend 2 ingredients and set aside.

4. Heat another tablespoon oil in a wok or skillet, and sauté Spice Blend 1 ingredients for about ½ to 1 minute. Add Spice Blend 2 and sauté for about ½ minute. Stir in Spice Paste and sauté for about 4 to 5 minutes, till fragrant, adding remaining oil if

needed.

5. Stir in tomato puree or paste, or tomatoes, tamarind juice, sugar or honey, and 1 cup water (¾ cup if using milk), and stir for 2 to 3 minutes. Add chicken pieces and sauté for about 15 minutes, till cooked.* Add coconut or evaporated milk, if using, and salt and stir for another 3 to 4 minutes. Remove cinnamon stick before serving.

*Alternately, just add the milk, if using, and salt to the sauce and rub over chicken,

keeping aside some sauce for basting. Let sit for about 30 minutes and then grill

chicken, basting often with the reserved sauce mixed with a little oil, till cooked.

For this festive occasion it is served with nasi kuning (scented yellow rice, nasi minyak (ghee rice), vegetable biryani, tomato rice or roti jala(a net-like crepe) and sayur lodeh (vegetables in spicy coconut milk) or mixed vegetable acar.

Scented Yellow Rice (Nasi Kuning) by Susheela Raghavan Flavors of Malaysia

Nasi kuning (yellow rice) or also referred to as nasi kunyit (turmeric rice) is a Malay-style rice preparation generally served for family get-togethers and festive occasions. In homes, it is traditionally prepared with glutinous rice, turmeric, white peppercorns, and coconut milk, and is frequently served with squid sambal, grilled chicken ayam percik, beef rendang, ayam masak merah or fried fish. Traditionally, when making nasi kuning, Malays add lemongrass with pandan leaf and another local leaf called daun salam, also known as Indonesian bay leaf (its flavor is different from the Indian bay leaf generally used in North Indian cooking). Nasi kuning is topped with strips of scrambled egg and fried onions.

Makes 3 to 4 servings

Ingredients

1 tablespoon ghee, butter, or cooking oil

¼ to ½ teaspoon white peppercorns

½ teaspoon turmeric powder

1 cup Jasmine or Basmati rice, washed and rinsed

1¼ to 1½ cups water (2 cups water for Basmati)

½ cup unsweetened coconut milk

2 pandan leaves, bruised with the tines of a fork and knotted, or 1 stalk lemongrass, bruised with back of knife and knotted

1 lobe Kaffir lime leaf, crunched

1 piece asam gelugor (sometimes labeled tamarind skin), or 1/2 to 3/4 tablespoon tamarind juice

½ teaspoon salt

Garnish:

¼ cup fried or sautéed shallots or onions

1 fresh red or green chile (Fresno, jalapeno, Serrano, cayenne, cherry, or Thai), sliced

Optional: 1 tablespoon roasted and crushed unsalted cashews or almonds

Optional: 1 tablespoon golden raisins

Directions:

1. Heat ghee, butter, or oil in a medium saucepan. Add peppercorns and fry for ½ minute, then add turmeric and stir for a few seconds.

2. Add rice and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes.

3. Add water, coconut milk, pandan leaves or lemongrass, Kaffir lime leaf, asam gelugor, and salt.

4. Stir, bring to a boil, then lower heat, cover, and simmer for about 15 minutes till all liquid is absorbed and rice is cooked. Remove from heat and let rice cook in its own steam, covered, for about 10 minutes. (If using a rice cooker, use proportions for rice cooker based upon above quantities. Add the rice mixture from step 3 to rice cooker, cover, and switch rice cooker on. Rice cooker automatically shuts off when rice is cooked.)

5. Remove pandan leaves, lemongrass, asam gelugor, and Kaffir lime leaf before serving. Garnish with fried shallots or onions and sliced green or red chile. Sprinkle with cashews and raisins to make it more festive.

Il Pranzo di Ferragosto

2011-08-15T15:21:00.000-04:00

August 15 is known as Ferragosto in Italy. This national holiday dates back to Roman times (18 CE) when the Emporer Ottaviano Augusto celebrated the harvests and the end of the main agricultural crop season. Everyone was granted a holiday which were celebrated with vacations, food, and merrymaking.

Today that spirit is still deeply embedded into the Italian culture and even the most diligent workers manage to escape today. Vacations, family meals, and picnics are the top priority of most Italians today and the pranzo or lunch of the Ferragosto is highly anticipated. My Ferragosto menu includes Penne with Tomato Eggplant Sauce and Sicilian Citrus Infused Tuna Steaks with Braised Fennel.

The holidays are all about compromise, especially in multi cultural homes. This year, Ferragosto falls right in the middle of Ramadan (which I observe). Our pranzo will have to wait until sunset!

Food "Made in Italy": Non Accettare Sostituti!!!

2011-07-20T13:49:00.001-04:00

Fancy Food Show, Washington, DC

Food and fashion go hand in hand - especially Italian food and fashion. Both are testaments to millenia of tradition, fine craftsmanship, and impeccable quality. I know this because prior to my culinary career, I studied and worked in the fashion industry. I remember first seeing the slogan "Non Accetare Sostituti" (Accept no Substitutes) on fashion designer Franco Moschino's clothing in the 1980's. Last week I noticed similar slogans bearing testament to the Italian food products at the Italian Pavilion at the 57th Annual Summer Fancy Food Show.

In addition to promoting the Italian vendors which were showcasing their products at the show, The Italian Trade Commission had the responsibility of educating consumers on the unique benefits and characteristics of Italian cuisine. Educational seminars, guided tastings, embassy events, cooking demos, and question and answer sessions held in conjunction with the show treated attendees to a free, speedy, and thorough Italian culinary education. Even if one couldn't make it to the events, just stopping and chatting with the cooks and vendors at their various booths proved to be an effective way of learning.

If you wonder whether or not you should believe the hype, continue reading.

Italians have been purveyors of the world's finest foods since antiquity. While the Romans were busy planting olive groves and vineyards in their newly claimed territories, they were also importing wheat from North Africa, spices from India and China,and incense from Arabia. The first known cookbook author, Apicius, also happened to be a Roman, and his work proved that "globalization" and "fusion cuisine" are nothing new.

The strong cultural, political, and economical advantages of gastronomy have always been appreciated in Italy. Agriculture itself was a topic that was studied with the utmost respect and civility by the upper and middle classes. According to Elena Kustiokovitch in Why Italians Love to Talk About Food, Tuscan "scholars dedicated their lives to formulating rules for farmers and agronomists" in the 18th century. There were even many farming manuals published during this period in Italian , and in 1753 there was even an academy founded in Florence to gather "great minds intent on the perfection of agriculture." With such scientific minds, highly educated and discerning palates as well as a huge helping of regional culinary patriotism, Italy even survived the industrial revolution and modernization while maintaining its traditional food ways, preserving culinary pedigrees, and cultural gastronomy.

Under the auspices of The Italian Trade Commission, The Italian government now takes advantage of social media and many other educational initiatives in order to promote Italian food as an important trade commodity around the world. As a result, Italy exported $3.183 billion worth of food and wine products to the US in 2010 and ranked 6th in exports to the U.S. food and wine market.

It is no accident then, that according to Mr. Aniello Musella, Executive Director for the Italian Trade Commission in the US, that the Italian Pavilion at last week's Fancy Food Show in Washington, DC was the largest of all the international pavilions. Strolling through the Italian Pavilion at the Fancy Food Show was like Christmas in July - or should I say, Christmas in July in Italy.

Here's a list of the top 7 Italian food trends which show true distinction in quality and are perfectly poised to make their mark in the United States this year.

1. Balsamic Vinegar

My friend Nicola of Fiorini 1919, in Modena taught me that Italian balsamics go through a strict judging process conducted by consortiums which determine whether or not they are worthy of earning stamps of approval. Panel experts are blindfolded and asked to rate the balsamics on quality, and not all of them make it. Even the bottles have to pass standards before being used. Nothing, in other words is left up to chance, or self expression of the individual vinegar maker. Non-certified makers outside of Italy often add caramel to their vinegars for a sweet flavor and color which can only be gained with time, patience, and care of the slow Italian aging process. One taste of Fiorini 1919's, or any other IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta/Geographically Protected Mark) 12 or 25 year old balsamics and you'll be able to taste the difference between the real thing and the imitators immediately.

2. Coffee

Coffee was introduced to Italy in the late 17th century. By developing unique and proprietary blends for roasting, processing, and blending the coffee into espresso and espresso products, coffee houses and caffes became part of the Italian culinary landscape. Fusing the coffee knowledge and passion with modern technology has led us to some of the world's most important coffee brands, such as Lavazza and Illy. Be on the lookout for "new" brands, such as Rome's Sant'Eustachio who still blend in the same tradition that they've been using for hundreds of years in Italy.

3. Natural Leavening

Sicilian Master Pastry Chef Nicola Fiasconaro, (above, who I've been following like a food groupie for the past 3 years) makes giant panettone and hollows out the inside to represent a manger and then fills it with white chocolate nativity figures each year for the Fiasconaro display at the fancy food show explained to me that he studied microbiology and molecular gastronomy in order to produce the quality baked goods that Fiasconaro is synomous with. According to him, the natural leavening process that artisinal Italian baked goods go through is what makes them superior.

One bite of his feather light panettone dough that tastes of butter, yet is now weighed down by it, exemplifies his union of science and art in baking. Nicola's Oro Verde, Sicilian Pistachio Cream has a taste to build a dream on, and traditional Sicilian (they spread through the Fatimid territories in the 9th century) sesame and nut candies are also heavenly.

A few moment's later, Francesco Cordona of Torino's Bonifanti also expressed the importance of natural leavening while giving me samples of Milanese, Torinese, and Genovese Panettone to sample. My favorite, and the most noteable in my opionion were Bonifanti's multitudes of Biscotti like Amaretti and Baci di Dama (lady's kisses, above) which are made in the old-fashioned manner and packaged to ship around the globe.

4. Olive Oil

With the popularity, wonderful flavor, and health benefits of the olive oils on the market today, it is extremely important to be educated on the differences between the tastes, countries of origin, and quality in order to understand their value and choose those which are most suited to your life and cooking style. Click here for a tutorial.

5. Pasta

Italians love pasta more than any other culture. To an Italian, "a day without pasta is a day without sun". If the sacred status of pasta alone is not reason enough to make you want to buy Italian pasta, I'll leave it to the experts to explain the differences. In the meantime, check out some of the best fresh pasta I've ever tasted from Lo Scoiattolo.

6. Grapes

In 2009, Italy overtook France as the top wine exporter to the US. Even so, many Americans are still confused by Italian wines. Since Merlot, Chardonnay, Champagne, and other Italian wines have become household names, American consumers simply try to replace them with Italian versions. To truly understand Italian wines, however, you have to take it a step further. By learning about unique regional Italian grape production, you will learn that regional Italian wines contain grapes which are exclusive to Italy. One which I am most proud to recommend comes from approximately 20 minutes north of my ancestral homeland of Crotone, Italy....and is called Ciro Marina. Made from the Gaglioppo or "blackberry" grapes planted in antiquity...perhaps even prior to Greek colonization of the region. If you are a distributor or importer of wines who would like to learn more about Italian varietals, contact my dear friend Antonio Borghesan of Mico S.r.l.'s Italian Wine & Food Export Group.

7. Cheeses

Now that mozzarella, parmigiano reggiano, and pecorino romano are staples in many American homes, US consumers are looking for "new" tastes, which Italians are fulfilling with quality Grana Padano, Burrata, and Taleggio. As a lover of Italian cheeses, I will be the first to warn you, once you become addicted, there is no cure. Luckily, there are many ways to treat Italian cheese cravings. While there are around 700 kinds of cheese in Italy, each town and village in Italy has scores of their own, unique local cheeses which add up to thousands of types to choose from. We could try a new one each day of our lives and still not have sampled each of them! Time honored traditions, flavor and quality ingredients continue to set them apart from other cheeses, and this trend is growing right along with our appetites!

Healthy, All-American Fourth of July

2011-07-01T15:42:00.000-04:00

The terms "good for you" and "delicious" are often mutually exclusive - especially on holidays like the 4th of July. Luckily, it doesn't have to be that way. If you're looking for great, last-minute dishes that are easy to make and packed with flavor - check out my menu and videos for recipes the whole family will love.

Chicken and Tarragon Burgers

Central American Coleslaw

Smokey Balsamic Baked Beans

Strawberry Beauty Smoothies

I wish everyone a happy, healthy 4th of July...and if you get a chance to try any of these recipes, let me know how you liked them!

Night in Havana...a Bittersweet Farewell

2011-06-19T16:53:00.000-04:00

Last night I was invited to a farewell party for Mr. Moatez Zahran and his lovely wife Hala who are leaving their post in Washington to return to Cairo. Known for their love of Latin music, our gracious hosts held a "Havana" themed going away party. Diplomats from the Turkish, Pakistani, Egyptian, and many other embassies came out to enjoy great music, company, and food. If you've got to say goodbye, there's no better way than doing it to the beat of Celia Cruz singing "La Vida es Un Carnival"! I wish Hala and Moatez all the best in the next chapter of their life, and look forward to seeing them in Cairo! Click here for or Cuban recipes and ideas on how to throw your own "Havana Night".

Pictured in Photo from left : (Mirande Goubran (Egyptian Embassy) Selen Evcit (Turkish Embassy, Mumtaz Zahra Baloch, Pakistani Embassy, and me)

Moving Patients from Good Intentions to Healthy Lifestyles

2011-06-08T14:27:00.001-04:00

That was the title of my culinary expo at US ENDO - The Endocrine Society's 93rd Annual Meeting & Expo in Boston which took place from Saturday - Monday. On Monday, I had the chance to give three separate Power Point presentations and cooking demos. This year- the meeting hit a new record with over 9,000 attendees!

I shared my opinions on what both medical and culinary professionals can do to assist their patients reach optimal health. I reviewed time management techniques, how to make healthy menus and meal plans, ways to inspire kids to eat healthfully....as well as my favorite, the You CAN attitude. In my experience, people are intimidated by leading healthy lifestyles because they are constantly being told what they can't do. All it takes is switching your mind to think about all of the foods you CAN eat, lifestyle changes you CAN make and all of the goals you CAN achieve by doing them.

As far as the nutritional aspects were concerned, I used my mantra of "With Pleasure and Health" which I borrow from the Egyptian culture (it's their way of saying Bon Appetit!). I believe that it should be the goal of all of our meals and activities to combine both pleasure and health. With diabetes on the rise among minority and new immigrant communities, I also addressed culturally appropriate ways in which the Latino, Asian, and African-American communities can eat healthfully while still maintaining their culinary roots. Many of the so-called "Super Foods" are also native to various ethnic communities - and they can easily be integrated into everyone's diets. Luckily, many celebrity chefs like Jacques Torres and Joel Robuchon have adopted healthier diets and eating (truly) well is finally becoming a trend in the food world.

It was an honor for me to talk with international doctors, nurses, and policy makers on their specific concerns. Soon all 3 sessions will be available for viewing on The Hormone Foundation's website (they are the public education affiliate for the US Endocrine Society). Sixteen of my favorite Healthy Recipes will also be available - including my Strawberry Smoothie, Broccoli, Sweet Potato and Red Pepper Stir Fry, Whole Grain Pilaf, Hummus, and Ethiopian Collard Greens (featured below). I hope that the ideas and solutions we discussed become an inspiration to many. Let me know your thoughts.....................

American Diabetes Association Chefs' Grill Throwdown - American Diabetes Association

2011-06-02T15:06:00.000-04:00

Did you know that June was National Fresh Fruit & Vegetable Month? Here's a great way to celebrate the season's bounty and kick off grilling season with the American Diabetes Association Chefs' Grill Throwdown - American Diabetes Association!

Travel Channel's Embassy Row Special

2011-05-31T11:21:00.001-04:00

Last year I got a phone call from the production department at the Travel Channel. They mentioned wanting to do an "Embassy Row" Special for Andrew Zimmern's Bizarre Foods program - and my blog was their inspiration. For months we discussed the cuisines of various countries, what filming in their embassies would involve, and general cultural-appropriate story lines. Preparing the show was a lot of fun for me because it gave me an audience for a topic I had already been discussing for years - how you can truly taste the world in DC.

Anderew Zimmern with Chef Mamdouh and I

Andrew with Mrs. Shoukry and Ambassador Shoukry

In the beginning, my role was going to be Andrew's DC guide...and I was going to escort him to each embassy. When the producers learned about my experience with Egyptian cuisine (and that I was working at the embassy at the time), however, they decided that I should be the "Egyptian expert" and help to coordinate that section of the show alone. I have to admit that thinking of the "most unusual" foods Egypt (or any other country for that matter) is not my strength. My general philosophy is "What I enjoy most about food is it's ability to inspire cultural pluralism effortlessly." I believe that it is the foods, techniques, and ingredients which we have in common that enable us to more easily identify with one another. Whenever I had helped plan embassy dinners in the past, that was the approach that we would take. The Egyptian Ambassador's wife, Mrs. Shoukry (as well as every other ambassadorial spouse in DC) always takes great care to provide a menu that everyone can partake in, regardless of their dietary restrictions, likes, and dislikes. Basically in DC, we're working to appeal to as many people as possible.

In short, deliberately planning "a bizarre menu" went against everything we've been trained to do! As a food historian and chef, I decided to include not only foods which I though the general public would think are weird, but those which served up great stories and taste, as well.

Our menu consisted of:

Koushari (Lentils, Rice, and Pasta with Spicy Tomato Sauce) - This dish came from India in the 19th century and is Egypt's most popular street food and a favorite of visiting vegetarian tourists!
Stuffed Pigeons (in this case we used Squab because the vendor couldn't get pigeons)with Freekeh - This dish was fed to the bride and groom during pharaonic wedding receptions!
Jew's Mallow Soup with Rabbit - This dish features the original bitter herb which was used on Seder plates and is so healthy that the kings and caliphs once outlawed commoners from eating it.
Egyptian Rice with Spice Infused Mixed Organ Meats - Egyptians have their own variety of rice!
Sweet Hibiscus Punch - This floral punch dates back to the ancient Nubian community!

Mrs. Shoukry and I planned an intimate lunch for Andrew in the same place that top heads of state would normally dine. We explained the history and important cultural role that each dish plays in Egypt. Although you can't tell by viewing the program, the best part of the entere process was working with the embassy staff, as well as the producers, film crew, and Andrew himself.

Tonight Andrew Zimmern's Bizarre Foods Embassy Row Special will air at 9pm Eastern. Unfortunately, the Egyptian segment got edited out of the program. It will, however, be shown in 100 different countries internationally. Here is a clip.

To learn more about Egyptian Cuisine and Culture, check out my Award-Winning Book, sign up for my Egyptian Culinary Tour, or my lecture entitled The Shared Table: Exploring Egypt's Multicultural Cuisine at the Smitsonian Resident Associate's program, tomorrow evening. If you enjoy volunteering and would like to work create lasting professional, medical, cultural, and educational collaboration between the US and Egypt, consider joining or supporting The Baltimore-Luxor-Alexandria Sister City Committee.

As we say in Egypt, bilhanna wishefa, may you enjoy all your meals with pleasure and health!

Mediterranean Memorial Day

2011-05-26T06:58:00.000-04:00

With the end of May comes Memorial Day, the beginning of Summer, and a final chance to celebrate “Mediterranean Diet Month”. Enjoy the following Mediterranean menu from The Mediterranean Diabetes Cookbook which is delicious, easy to prepare, and healthful. Whether you spend this Memorial Day inside or out, these sunny recipes are sure to satisfy. You may even be inspired to make it a Mediterranean Summer!!!

Mini Berry Crostate formed in mini tart shells with extra berries on top to garnish

Mediterranean Memorial Day Menu

Sour Cherry Lemonade

Sicilian Salad with Potatoes

Chicken Pita Sandwiches

Spicy Israeli Tomato Spread

Mini Mixed Berry Crostata (Video)

DC Greens - Kids' Stuff

2011-05-15T23:26:00.000-04:00

DC Greens is a 501(c)(3) organization that supports school gardens and Farm to School initiatives in the District of Columbia. DC Greens runs the Glover Park – Burleith Farmers’ Market in upper Georgetown, and channels proceeds from the market back into local food education and access in DC schools.

I was really excited about going to volunteer at the Farmers' Market yesterday. Our DC farmers' markets are always full of kids, fresh produce, and fun. At the end of a busy work week and dealing with deadlines and traffic - a walk through a farmers' market in the nation's capitol can feel like a step back in time to when procuring the best possible ingredients for yourself and your family were the most important things on your to do list.

At first glance, the Glover Park Farmers' Market doesn't seem like much. Tucked in a parking lot accross the street from the "social" Safeway...you might even miss it if you weren't looking for it. Other local markets like Eastern Market in Capitol Hill, the Dupont Circle Market, and the Olney and Silver Spring Farmers' Markets in Maryland get a lot more attention and traffic. Despite it's small size and newcomer status, Glover Park is not to be missed. With everything from fresh produce to local honey, homemade cakes, and some of the most stunning flowers around, Glover Park has everything you need.

What surprised me the most about this little market were the goats! It was the baby goats who stole the show! They were right accross from where I was doing my demo. I loved seeing the kids lined up to pet, and sometimes carry, the baby goats around. Alan from Spriggs Delight Farm in Sharpsburg, Maryland came over to my stand and donated some goat's milk feta and ricotta for me to taste. I was supposed to be demonstrating Tabbouli and Strawberry and Mascarpone Parfaits, but I quickly adapted my recipes to take adavantage of my new bounty of artisan cheese.

My traditional Tabbouli quickly turned into a Mediterranean Salad with the addition of the goat feta. I added some of the fresh, hand-dipped ricotta into my yogurt-mascarpone mixture for the parfaits for a thicker texture and added tanginess. When Alan noticed I was using store bought yogurt, he brought me over some fresh goat milk yogurt, and goat chevre, which I also incorporated into the parfaits. In a few seconds my normally "loose" cream turned into a thick, almost frosting-mousse like consistency that made them prettier and tastier. Alan also urged me to make my next cheesecake with 2 parts goat chevre and one part goat ricotta. Even though I haven't tried it, I know it will be delicious.

Take advantage of this month's fresh strawberries with the following recipe. If you can get your hands on some of the artisan goat yogurts and cheeses, try swapping them out for the regular yogurt and mascarpone in this recipe - healthy never tasted so good!

Strawberry Mascarpone Parfaits

This recipe is from my third book, The Mediterranean Diabetes Cookbook.

Servings: 6

Serving Size: 3/4 cup

Ingredients:

11/2 cups trimmed strawberries, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons (1 ounce) mascarpone

1 cup lowfat vanilla yogurt, drained

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon cinnamon

3/4 cup lowfat almond granola

Preparation:

1. Place 1 cup strawberries, mascarpone, sugar, and cinnamon in a blender and whip until light.

2. Stir in lowfat vanilla yogurt and set aside.

3. Pour 1/3 cup of mixture into 6 clear parfait glasses.

4. Top with 1 layer of remaining strawberry slices (reserving 6 for garnish).

5. Scatter 1 tablespoon granola on top of the strawberry slices in each glass.

6. Top each glass with another layer of remaining strawberry mixture.

7. Garnish with 1 remaining strawberry.

8. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate a minimum of 2 hours or a maximum of overnight before serving.

Healthy Living Tradition:

Five ounces of fresh berries per day can reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease and lower blood pressure. Freeze this strawberry mixture in popsicle molds for a healthy summertime alternative to fattening ice cream.

Mother's Day Culinary Tour of NYC

2011-05-06T14:00:00.000-04:00

Even if you haven't given Mother's Day a thought...you can still earn major bonus points with Mom by following my Mother's Day Culinary Tour of NYC. Start out on the Upper West Side at Taralluccievino. Indulge your nostalgia for all things good and Italian with a housemade bomboloni and proper cappuccino.

If you've never eaten one before, bomboloni look like American doughnuts. But, their light, feathery dough and fresh Italian pastry cream filling set them apart. Taralluci e Vino bake theirs along with fresh cornetti (Italy's lighter, airier version of the croissant) downstairs. They taste exactly like the ones that Italians enjoy for breakfast. I have been searching for these on American soil for the past 15 years! Check them out in the bottom, right hand side at the photo above. If I lived in the neighborhood, I would start each day there - and if I lived somewhere else in New York, I'd check out one of their other 4 locations. Then take a stroll through nearby Central Park and enjoy the scenery and Sunday markets.

For brunch, head back to the East side of Manhattan and savor the laid back, country charm vibe of Ze Cafe. Mom's sure to love the Banana and Mascarpone Stuffed French Toast, Oatmeal Brulee, and Ricotta Cheese Blintzes.

Take a stroll through the neighborhood and and check out Grace's Market (that's Grace Balducci for out-of towners) and local food purveyors so Mom can pick out her gift on site.

Then it's time to head to Brooklyn. Soak in the sun at the Botanical Gardens which currently has over 6,000 tulips in bloom. If Mom's a Middle Eastern food afficionado, check out Atlantic Avenue. Then, head to Le Gamin in Greenpoint for dinner. Owned and operated by chef/restauranteur Robert Arbor, Le Gamin aims to please. Robert's innate hospitality creates a warm, inviting bistro atmosphere which is consistently full of an eclectic mix of locals, visitors, and Robert's family members. With French flavors and American portions, you won't leave here hungry. As hard as I tried, I was only able to finish a quarter of my Steak Frites! My advice to you is to ask for the remainder of your meal to go and save room for a crepe for dessert. Mine came stuffed with a luscious, light lemon curd that melted into the warm crepe tasted like a sweet and creamy bite of paradise. Follow my simple plan, and Mom will be in heaven!

One World One Table – Dining with Diplomats

2011-04-24T10:23:00.000-04:00

One World One Table – Dining with Diplomats Here's my latest radio interview which discusses how we all come together over food. I can't think of a more appropriate Easter message! Wishing you all a season full of peace, pleasure, and health!

Mediterranean Easter Breads

2011-04-22T12:08:00.000-04:00

"Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi!" is an old Italian proverb which means

"Spend Christmas with your relatives and Easter with whoever you want!"

Mention Easter and I think of bread. Most holidays, in fact, remind me of one kind of baked good or another. This association is due to the fact that my maternal grandmother always made cozzuppe - a traditional Southern Italian Easter bread which you may remember from a previous blog entry. It's so light and filled with citrus fragance that it formed my standard against which all other bread is always compared. When my Nonna and I can't be together, she ships us the bread.

This year, I decided to make the Colomba, or the Italian Peace Dove, a Northern Italian panettone-like Easter bread which I learned to love while living in Rome. Prior to Easter all the bakeries in the city would adorn their shop windows with the most beautiful, historically accurate, or outrageous versions they could think of.

Easter also calls to mind images of my Greek paternal step-grandmother who always made sure that there were loaves of fresh Tsourekia at her table. Since the Greek Orthodox Easter often falls on a different date than the Roman Catholic Easter does, I grew up being able to partake fully in both culture's customs.

What I love most about holiday breads is that

they're really not breads at all. Enriched with eggs, butter, sugar, honey, and other additions -they actually are closer to cake than bread and are classified in the "brioche"category. Even though dairy and sugar are no longer as expensive as they were in antiquity, if these bread recipes are only made once a year, they're still a treat. Since they look as beautiful as they taste, they also double as gorgeous centerpieces at the Easter table.

Here's my step to step guide on making each one along with the fun lore and legends which surround them. If you don't have time to bake this year, you can order Italian Colomba here. If you're in the DC Area and would like to experience a last minute hands on Celebrating Spring Breads Class, come to my class at CulinAerie tomorrow morning.

Greek Easter Bread/Tsourekia

This spicy, golden bread is studded with dark red colored eggs which symbolize the blood of Christ. At Easter time, it is traditional for people to play a game by 2 players holding an egg and hitting the egg of their opponent. The one who hits says “Christ has risen” and the other person responds “Truly he has risen”. The cracking of the shell symbolizes Jesus coming out of his grave. This recipe contains all-spice and cinnamon, but mahleb (crushed cherry kernals), ground mastic (gum resin from the island of Chios), and caraway seeds are also traditional.

Toppings range from a plain glaze to anise and sesame seeds to gold leaf foil and almonds depending upon what part of Greece you are in.

If you want the traditional deep red color, it is advisable to use food coloring paste from a Greek store which is made specifically for this use.

Makes 1 long braid

Serves 10

Ingredients:

For the Dough:

2 ¼ teaspoons instant or rapid rise yeast

¾ cup lukewarm milk

¼ cup butter (1/2 stick), at room temperature

3 tablespoons sugar

2 eggs

4 cups flour

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground allspice

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

For the Eggs:

3 white eggs

¼ teaspoon bright red food coloring paste or 1 small bottle red food dye

1 teaspoon distilled vinegar

1 teaspoon water

1 teaspoon olive oil

For the Glaze:

1 egg yolk

1 teaspoon clear honey

1 teaspoon water

Preparation:

In a small bowl, mix the yeast with the milk and set aside.

In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar together. Beat in eggs with mixer running on low. Add in the yeast mixture.

Switch to dough hook and add in the flour, salt, allspice and cinnamon.

Continue mixing until a dough forms.

Knead dough with mixer running on low speed for 3 minutes.

Cover bowl and leave to rise for 1 hour, or until doubled.

While dough is rising prepare the Easter eggs (paskalina avga):

Fill a medium saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Add dye and vinegar. Add eggs to cover, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until eggs are colored.

Alternately, if using American food dye (not paste), hard boil eggs, and place food coloring and vinegar in a bowl large enough to submerge eggs. Add eggs and allow to soak until desired cover is reached. Remove eggs and allow to dry on a cooling rack over an aluminum foil lined baking sheet. Some people have even been known to use fabric dye in lieu of Greek dye in order to achieve the traditional deep red color!

Knock back the dough once it has risen, cover, and allow to rise for another hour.

Once it has risen, transfer dough to a lightly floured surface and divide into 3 parts.

Roll each one into a 12 inch log of equal thickness.

Plait one end together and braid log.

Place 1 egg in each of the holes. (Note: I used American dye which is why the color is not as deep)

Transfer bread onto a baking sheet, cover with a kitchen towel, and allow to rise another hour, or until doubled.

Preheat oven to 350F degrees.

Whisk egg yolk with honey and water.

Once bread has risen, brush glaze over the entire surface except for eggs.

Blot olive oil onto a paper towel and use it to shine eggs.

Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until golden.

Italian Dove Easter Bread/ La Colomba

This delicious bread, which resembles brioche can be made in cake pans and enjoyed at breakfast throughout the year. The dove shape makes a fantastic centerpiece. Individual baby doves with the guests’ names tied around their neck make great place markers. Traditionally, almonds and large sugar granules are used to decorate the top.

Numerous legends surround this cake. According to one, the Milanese, locked in battle with the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa just after Easter in 1176, saw the struggle turn in their favor when three doves flew from the nearby church. The legend says that ever since, Milanese have celebrated their victory by eating cakes in the shape of a dove.

Makes 1 loaf

Serves 20

Ingredients:

For the dough:

½ cup milk, warmed to not more than 120F degrees

¼ cup sugar

¼ cup honey

3 eggs

Zest of 1 lemon

Zest of 2 oranges

4 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra, if necessary

1 teaspoon salt

2 ½ teaspoons instant or fast acting yeast

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup chocolate chips, raisins, dried chopped fruit, or candied citron

For the glaze:

1 egg white

1 teaspoon almond extract

Handful of whole almonds

Parchment paper or cooking spray

Preparation:

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the milk, sugar, honey, eggs and both zests.

Turn the mixer on low, and add in flour, salt, and yeast.

Mix until the dough comes together to form a wet ball.

If dough does not come together, add an additional ½ cup flour, until you get a dough consistency.

Allow the mixer to run on low for 4 minutes, or until the dough is smooth.

With the mixer running on low, add the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it is all incorporated.

Mix in the chocolate chips, raisins, dried fruit, or candied citron, if using.

Cover bowl with plastic wrap and all ow the dough to rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or cooking spray.

Once the dough has risen, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and divide it in half.

Roll one of the halves into a 12-inch log and place it in the middle of the cookie sheet.

Form the other half into a 15-inch long triangle with a 6-inch wide base.

Place the triangle over the log so that the wide end extends 4-inches below the log and the pointed end extends above it.

Form the pointed end into the dove’s head and arrange chocolate chips or fruit to be the eye.

Cut 5-incisions in the bottom of the triangle and fan it out to resemble the tail.

Cut the sides of the log into wings.

Cover the dove and allow to rise for another hour.

When the dove has risen, preheat the oven to 350F degrees.

Mix the almond extract with the egg white and brush it over the entire top and sides of the dove.

Press the almonds along the base of the tail feather and wings in order to outline the design.

Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until golden and fluffy.

Cool and enjoy. Can be made ahead of time, wrapped in plastic, and frozen until serving.

It's important to note that many of our Easter and baking traditions hail from Ancient Egypt. Easter Monday picnics, popular throughout Europe, actually date back to an Ancient Egyptian spring festival called Sham en Nassim. Here's to a Happy Easter and a Happy Spring!!!

Easy, Creamy, Passover Pudding

2011-04-16T18:30:00.000-04:00

A lot of my cooking students complain about traditional Passover desserts, which often get a bad rap as being dry and boring. A few years ago, I was honored when asked to bring dessert to a Passover Seder. With deep respect for anyone who makes dietary sacrifices for religious reasons, and a sense of sympathy for those who suffer from dietary allergies, I am always ready to make the best out of what people CAN eat, instead of what they can't. For the Seder, I chose to make an Italian Sponge Cake with almond flour (ground almonds) instead of the traditional flour. To complement the cake, I made a delicious Egyptian apricot pudding. The pudding is perfect on many counts - it's unique and tastes great and it's pretty and compliments the texture of the cake. Apricots also bloom earlier than most fruits, so they are also seasonally appropriate for the Passover menu.
My dessert was a hit, and everyone loved the recipe which I went on to publish in Nile Style: Egyptian Cuisine and Culture. A guest at the party later told me: "Amy...your dessert was terrific..and yes, you solved the "dry" dilemma." "But," she continued, "You have to understand that dry desserts at Passover are like an unspoken cultural rite among the Jewish community." "We don't like eating them...but a Seder without them wouldn't be the same!"

Apricot Pudding/ Mahallibayat Amr al Din

8 Servings

Apricots are significant in both the Judaic and Islamic faith. Fresh apricots, known as mish mish in Arabic, bloom very early in the spring around the time of Passover. Our English word apricot was a derivative of the Arabic word al burquq which means precocious and described the early blooming apricots. Qamr al Din means “moon of faith” in Arabic, and is the word given to dried apricots. In the Egyptian dialect, the “Q” at the beginning of the word is silent. Traditionally, this pudding is made with corn starch, but I’ve substituted potato starch for Passover.

Ingredients:

1 pound dried apricots

1 cup sugar

4 tablespoons potato starch dissolved in ¼ cup cold water

Handful of blanched almonds or other nuts, to decorate

Handful of raisins, to decorate

Preparation:

Chop the apricots into small pieces. Place them in a large bowl and cover them with 4 cups of boiling water. When the apricot pieces dissolve, add sugar, and stir. Puree the mixture in a blender.

Pour the apricot juice into a medium saucepan. Add the potato starch mixture and stir well with a wooden spoon to combine. Increase the heat to high and allow the mixture to boil for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Reduce heat to medium low, and continue cooking the pudding, stirring slowly until it thickens and pulls away from the sides of the saucepan. Pour into individual ramekins or a large decorative bowl. Sprinkle raisins and nuts on top in a pattern by laying cookie cutters on top and filling the insides of the shapes with nuts or raisins. Remove cookie cutters and refrigerate approximately 2 hours, or until set. Serve cold.

Culinary Historians of Washington's Book Report

2011-04-12T21:20:00.001-04:00

Each year the Culinary Historians of Washington (Chow) holds a Cooperative Supper with a theme. Interested members bring dishes to fit the theme and then discuss what inspired them to create their dishes. In the past, themes have ranged from specific eras to presidential favorites. This year's theme was "book report" and we were instructed to prepare dishes mentioned in our favorite fiction or non-fiction works.

Me with French- Carribean expert Anne Gaelle Laplanche

Main Course Table

My Konafa

Dessert Table

When I read the invitation, I was in Egypt. The only book quote that I could think of at the time was the following:

“This is a month (Ramadan) that has its duties and its obligations.” Her son Ahmed said, “It has its obligations, yes, but the war is terrible and it takes priority over everything else.” The mother said, “God forbid, I hope we never have to give up our traditions. What about the nuts, the konafa and the qatayif? The father said, “We can make do with some pine nuts, sultanas, and dried apricots.”

From the novel Khan el Khalili by Egyptian Nobel Prize winning author Naguib Mahfouz

I brought Mixed Nut K'nafeh and discussed being inspired by the emotions I felt during the Egyptian revolution..how all of a sudden, those of us who were in Cairo felt the same feelings as the main character in this novel felt during World War II. During the revolution, among the chaos and fear, the food supply (especially produce) was affected. In addition to not knowing what was going to happen next politically, we all of a sudden had to change our diets. It's ironic that maintaining culinary traditions and eating comfort foods are the best way to maintain normalcy in difficult situations, yet they are often the first things to disappear.

Other people brought interesting edible pieces of Americana...like the "Washington Pie" which was not a pie at all - but a jam filled cake made by settlers who didn't have enough fat (lard, butter, etc) to make real pies. Another member brought a risotto recipe from a 14-th century Italian cook - steeped with cinnamon and saffron, it was a testament to Venice's important role in the Medieval spice trades. My favorite part of the event, however, was learning that at some prominent dinners in history, each guest at the table would be expected to recite poetry (from memory) which mentioned the main ingredient in each course. I replied, "maybe we can brush up on our poetry and try that next year!"

View of Washington, DC from Alexandria, Virginia

Mixed Nut K’nafeh (Konafa)

Makes 15 Servings

K’nafeh is made from pastry strands which are sold as “Shredded Phyllo Dough” in English. The name, however, is a bit of a misnomer because it implies that Phyllo sheets are prepared and then shredded. Actually, the strands are made by brushing batter onto a hot griddle in a circle pattern. The stands are then removed from the griddle and formed into bunches. This is often done on the street in Egypt, and is especially popular at Ramadan.

K’nafeh can be filled with nuts, sweet cream, or sweet cheese and stored in the refrigerator, for up to 3 days, but it is best eaten the day it is prepared. Keep in mind that this dessert needs to be weighed down in the refrigerator for at least one hour.

Ingredients:

For the syrup:

1 ½ cups sugar

2 large strips of orange peel

Juice of 1 small orange

For the filling:

½ cup walnuts, chopped

½ cup blanched almonds, chopped

½ cup shelled pistachios, chopped

½ cup roasted, unsalted peanuts, chopped

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon orange blossom water

For the K’nafeh:

1 (1 pound) package kataifi*, thawed

4 sticks unsalted butter, melted

Preparation:

Make the syrup by putting sugar, 1 cup water, orange peel, and orange juice into a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon until sugar is dissolved. Stop stirring, reduce heat to low, and let simmer approximately 10 to 15 minutes, until syrup thickens. Remove from heat and cool. Remove orange peel from syrup.

Preheat oven to 350 F degrees. Make the filling by combining walnuts, almonds, pistachios, peanuts, sugar, and orange blossom water in a food processor. Pulse on and off until mixture is coarsely ground.

To assemble the K’nafeh, place melted butter in a large, deep bowl. Holding the kataifi strands over the butter, pull them apart, and toss them with the butter. Use your fingers to combine and continue breaking the strands up until they are 1 to 2-inches each.

Press half of strands into the bottom of a 9x13-inch baking pan. Spread the filling evenly over the top. Press the remaining kataifi strands over the filling to cover.

Cover the surface of the K’nafeh with tin foil. Place 2 (5 pound) weights on top (bags of sugar or cans work fine). Refrigerate 1 hour or up to overnight. Take weights off and uncover k’nafeh.

With a sharp, long serrated knife, carefully make 30 squares inside the pan (only cut three-quarters of the way down). Place in the oven and bake for 1 hour and 20 minutes, rotating pan every 20 minutes to ensure even baking. K’nafeh is finished when it is golden in color. Carefully pour the syrup over the k’nafeh after removing from the oven.

Let cool completely and use a spatula to serve.

My LUX(or) Life

2011-04-09T10:30:00.000-04:00

Me in front of Luxor Temple

I LOVE Luxor. Not the way that tourists (or I) would normally love a city for its glitzy buildings, glamorous shop windows, and characteristic neighborhoods. Luxor, Egypt doesn't really have any of those. Nevertheless, during the recent Egyptian revolution, when all foreigners were being evacuated from Cairo at the request of their governments, I headed straight to the airport, and instead of returning home to the U.S., boarded a flight to Luxor. I realized that my affinity with this ancient city could stupefy even the sages when I arrived and the locals were shocked. "How did you get here?" they asked. " The last of the foreigners left days ago!"

Instead of feeling scared that I was "the only one" left, I actually felt lucky. Now I had the city to myself, I thought, and I would be able to enjoy it even more. The shock that I felt during the first week of the revolution in Cairo seemed melted away as soon as I heard the first wedding procession on the street. In glaring contrast to Cairo, where we had an early evening curfew, the residents of Luxor could go out as they pleased. Despite the one old military tank on the Nile Corniche (we joked that they gave Luxor an old tank so that it would fit in with all the antiquities), there were no signs of danger.

View of Mosque and sunset from Tut Hotel

I've always felt that Egypt's greatest assets were not the monuments and temples, but the people and the Nile. Luxor has all of them. Slated to become the world's largest open-air museum, this unique combination of 7,000 year old temples dotting the skyline along with breathtaking views of the Nile and people so kind, down to earth, and genuine make Luxor impossible to forget. Luxorians are the kind of people who can look at someone and sense what they are like, without ever exchanging words. Despite cultural differences, I rarely need to explain my thoughts or concerns - its as though everyone can sense what I feel.

Luxor takes her name from the word "Al Uqsor" or "The Palaces" in Arabic. When the Arabs arrived there in the 7th century, they believed that all of its temples were palaces. Our modern English word "luxury" was born out of its name, for Luxor's palaces and monuments were the most splendid of their time. Even millenia after they were built, they still stand testament to this great city. Although 75% of the monuments were destroyed by the Persians in antiquity, there are still enough of them to draw 4,000 tourists to visit this city of 400,000 each day during high season (October-April)!

Mahmoud Fathy, founder of Digital Bridges of Technology

My life in Luxor is simple. I wake up, enjoy breakfast (the best so far is the custard filled brioche at the Tut Hotel) while overlooking the Nile from my balcony and hearing school children singing songs at the elementary school across the street. The brioche are so light, airy, and tender that they call to mind the best ones I ever ate in Venice in 1996. The view of the Nile is always the same, and the kids voices projecting from across the street remind me that despite the monuments, Luxor is a living city. Next I get ready and wait to hear from my friends to call to invite me to lunch, dinner, or coffee. I make appointments to conduct meeting for an organization that I chair called the Baltimore Luxor Alexandria Sister City Committee.

Metropolitan Cafe Mahmoud Edris, Dr. Ali, and Ahmed Edris

Keep in mind that this is a very "of the minute" place so even if you had plans from the night before, it's best to better check. It's good to have a Plan B, and a Plan C. Once a friend stood me up because he was walking to meet me and met another friend on the street who emigrated a long time ago. He sat down to have a drink with him and 6 hours later remembered our appointment. In true Luxorian fashion, however, 2 other locals invited me to lunch and dinner and I ended up having a great time. My favorite way to spend the evenings is at the open air Metropolitan Coffee Shop and the newly renovated Kababgy restaurant (arguably the best kabobs in Egypt) on the Nile. In lieu of board rooms, Luxor's most important decisions take place in coffee shops, and its easy to understand why. Here the setting is so beautiful that it can transform even the most difficult decision into a piece of cake! Traditional drinks like hot milk and cinnamon, anise tea, tea with mint, fresh juices and Turkish coffees continue to flow until agreements have been met. Understandably, I've never seen anyone leave angry.

Me & Koty Edris

Since my original plans in Luxor got sidetracked during the revolution (no tourists to lead the culinary tour), I found myself immersed in the lives of my friends. Restaurants were closed and I got to go to people's homes for lunch and dinner everyday. Enjoying delicious, home cooked meals like tagins (Egypt's clay pot stews), roasted meats, orzo pasta, Egyptian rice, soups, and more while sitting Indian style on the floor for two months unintentionally strengthened ties with people I already felt close to. I got to cook in people's homes and help set the "table" (even though everyone has traditional dining tables, most prefer a tablecloth or blanket spread out on a clean Oriental carpet). To me, there is no match for the kind of non-verbal language that takes place during these daily acts. We learn about one another and become closer as a result of performing them together. Despite all of the inconveniences of the revolution, the fact that I got to meet new people, and grew closer to those I already knew made the experience worth while.
By the time I left Luxor on April 5 all of the travel bans on Egypt had been lifted. Tourists from England, Italy, Spain, and the US started trickling in. Like me, they felt lucky to have the city to "themselves." Tourists on the fence about traveling to Egypt right now should go ahead with their plans. Tourism is the backbone of the Egyptian economy, and everyone in the business has been working diligently to renovate and upgrade their services during the past few months. In addition, many places are also offering discounts. The weather is beautiful now and you will get unparalleled attention. To book a tour, contact Far and Beyond Travel.
Whenever I leave Luxor I get extremely emotional. Somewhere deep inside I worry that I won't ever go back. In recent years I started making plans to return before I leave in order to avoid depression. Usually, my friends ask "When will you be back?" and I like to have an answer from them. This time, however, something was different. After two months of including me in family life, I was instructed by one of the matriarchs with the same words that she tells her children when they travel "Come back soon!" and "Matkhareesh!" "Don't take too long!" "I won't," I replied. "In sha Allah." "God willing."

Veal and Potato Tagin

(Recipe from Nile Style: Egyptian Cuisine and Culture)

Veal and Potato Tagin

Tagin Bitello wa Batatas

4 Servings

Although this cooking method is ancient, it is still preferred by many modern chefs. Clay pot cooking is one of the healthiest cooking methods available because it requires hardly any fat, and the food retains its flavor, thereby enhancing the whole dish. Clay pots also “seal” the flavor inside and don’t need to be checked on often during cooking.

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon clarified butter (ghee)*

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

3 cups chopped tomatoes, with juice

1 pound boneless veal shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes

5 cloves garlic, sliced

3 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and sliced into thin rounds

Salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/8 teaspoon ground dried red pepper flakes

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon paprika

2 tablespoons freshly chopped parsley

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 300F degrees. In an oven proof saucepan, or regular sauce pan if you will be using a clay baking dish, heat clarified butter over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until translucent. Add tomatoes, meat, garlic, and potatoes. Season with salt, pepper, red pepper flakes, ground nutmeg, cinnamon, and paprika and stir well.

If using a clay baking dish, spoon stew into dish and cover. Otherwise cover saucepan and place in the oven. Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until meat and potatoes are tender and a “crust” forms on top. Remove from oven, taste, and adjust salt, if necessary. Garnish with parsley and serve in baking dish.

• Clarify butter by melting it and removing the white solids from the top

Italians who call Luxor home

Traditional coffee pots, brass and copper ware

With friends at a wedding ceremony

With Alaa Megaly at a Wedding

Prince William's Wedding Menu

2011-03-30T05:41:00.000-04:00

Last month I got a really fun request from CNN.com to submit a menu that I, as a "multi-cultural" chef, would serve if I were responsible for Prince William's wedding menu. Since menu -making is my favorite activity, I was thrilled at the chance to do this one. Today the article came out, with just a few of my suggestions. Instead of publishing our entire menus with their explanations, the author focused on a few the different cultural elements that each of us (chefs) mentioned. My menu was different from the others because instead of focusing on my own culture and areas of specialty, I created a menu that highlighted the love story, social status, personal favorites, and political responsibility of the royal couple. Just writing it was a labor of love! I believe that making menus - whether they're for a simple week night dinner or an important social occasion, gives us the opportunity to demonstrate our affection, nostalgia, values, and creativity. As a professional, it is often necessary for me to go out of my personal comfort zone to make sure that the menu suits my clients. The research, learning, and creating are all part of the process that I enjoy most.

Here's the menu I created for the royal couple and the thought process behind it:

My menu exudes the modern fairytale theme that is expected of the British royal family’s wedding. It is inspired by the personal favorite flavors and cuisines of both Prince William and Kate Middleton as well as British classics and seasonal produce. Personal favorites were chosen to make the occasion as significant as possible for the bride and groom. Prince William’s favorite dishes are said to be poached eggs, venison, fruit salad, pizza, pasta, and chocolate- all of which are featured prominently on the menu. Historically, royal families use festive occasions to set new culinary trends. For this reason, British classics were added as a way of promoting the country’s gastronomy.

Modern leaders are also expected to promote the health and well-being of their citizens as well as to improve the economy. Throughout the menu, local, seasonal produce emphasizes the modern social responsibility that leaders carry to encourage sustainable living.

Due to today’s lagging economy and difficult job market, many Brits would consider it offensive for Prince William’s wedding menu to be as luxurious as his parents’ was 30 years ago. For this reason, many of the recipes call for common ingredients. The symbolism found in each of the dishes and the precision that went into planning each course as well as a few luxurious touches, will be an inspiration to many. Since the couple got engaged in Kenya, various Kenyan elements can be found on the menu. Kate Middleton’s favorite places include Egypt and London. For this reason, Egyptian and English inspired dishes are also present. I created an edible favor known as Cleopatra’s Kisses which consists of marzipan stuffed walnuts that are said to have been fed to Marc Anthony and Caesar by Cleopatra. I took many liberties with a global theme because Prince William was a geography major. For the Bachelor’s Cake, I married one of his childhood favorites, banana flan with chocolate. Each course has been paired with wines that not only compliment with the flavor profile of the cuisine, but also have important vintages. Since international heads of state will be in attendance, a non-alcoholic drink is also offered for those who don’t partake.

Royal Wedding Dinner and Reception

April 29, 2011

Hors D’oeuvres:

Poached Quail Eggs over Asparagus Puree on British Country Olive Bread

Individual Fire Baked Four Cheese Pizzas (White Stilton, Cheddar, Cotswald & Cotherstone)

Mini Spinach & Spring Onion Frittata Hearts with Herbed Mascarpone Cream

Hand Crafted Venison Sausage Pot Stickers with Thai Peanut Dipping Sauce

Jersey Royal New Potato Rostis with Smoked Salmon, Crème Fraiche, and Caviar

Theale Vineyard Sparkling Chardonnay 2003

Passion Fruit Punch

**********

Appetizer:

Asparagus and Spinach Flan with Stilton Cream Sauce and Baby Rocket

Perli Vineyards Zinfandel Edmeades 2004

Sparkling Pomegranate Cider

***********

First:

Porcini and Truffle Filled Corzetti (Ravioli with Royal Coat of Arms Stamp) and White Lobster Cream Sauce

Cuvée Perle D'Ayala Millésimé Brut 2000

Saffron Sherbet

***********

Amuse:

Passion Fruit Sorbet

***********

Main:

Venison Medallions with Béarnaise Sauce

Royal Jersey Potato Truffle Croquettes

Braised Kenyan-Style Kale

Breads:

Fresh Rosemary Fougasse, Kenyan Cornmeal Hearts, Sourdough, Truffle Dusted Grissini, Love Knots, Cheese –Filled Nigella “Blessed” Seed Turnovers

Michele Chiarlo Barbera d'Asti Superiore La Court 2006

Golden Dream Cocktail

Salad:

Rocket, Radish, Carrot, Nasturtium, and Asparagus Salad with Orange Blossom - Pepper Vinaigrette in English Farmhouse Cheddar Tulip Bowls

Rutherglen Estate Shiraz-Petite Sirah 2006

Egyptian Hibiscus Punch

************

Cheese

Cheshire, Cotswold, Wensleydale, Stilton, Gloucester, Crackers, Fig and Quince Compotes, Smoked Almonds, and Dried Fruit

Vie di Romans Dessimis Pinot Grigio Isonzo del Friuli 2008

Lemon Mint Sherbet

***********

Fruit

Rose Water and Mint Infused Fruit Salad with Whipped Cream

Hessische Staatsweinguter Kloster Eberbach Rudesheimer Hinterhaus Rheingau Reisling 1921

Rose Spritzer

*************

Dessert

Dark Chocolate Mousse Filled Strawberries & Cream

Vanilla Buttermilk Heart Cakes with Passion Fruit Puree & Almond Buttercream

Champagne Perrier-Jouet Fleur de Champagne Rose 2002

Caffé Florian Rose Tea

************

Dessert Bar

Chocolate Banana Flan Bachelor’s Cake

Persian Love Cake

Bite Size Traditional Apple Pies with White Stilton

Double Chocolate, Raspberry, and Cream Trifle

Chocolate Caramel Croque en Bouche

Seville Orange Marmalade & Ginger Tartlets

Amadei Chuao Single Plantation Chocolate Fountain with Fresh Fruit & Cake Skewers

Almond Stuffed Chocolate Covered Dates

Kenyan Confectioners’ Stand:

Made to order Sugar Dusted Mandazi Fritters with Kenyan AAA Coffee

Gelato Stand:

Dark Chocolate, Wild Cherry, and White Chocolate Gelato Trio with Espresso

Cookie Table:

Sesame Rings, Pine Nut Cookies, Molded Dark Chocolate Hearts with World Peace Dove Logo, Vanilla Macarons with Chocolate Ganache, Vanilla and Rose Water Madeleines, Petit Fours Secs, Date Filled Semolina Cookies, Cardamom Shortbread, Apricot Chocolate Chip, and Italian Chocolate Mocha Truffle Cookies

Lindt Truffle Hot Chocolate

Edible Favor: Cleopatra’s Kisses

As we say in Italian "Viva gli sposi!" "Long live the bride and groom!"

Abu Dhabi Day 3

2011-03-20T14:25:00.000-04:00

Yesterday's classes and media interviews left me so tired that I woke up late and got started much later than I would have normally planned. Unfortunatley, I missed the Dhow (traditional wooden fishing boat) cruise that had been arranged for us. I'll have to save that for the next trip. Instead, I took a taxi downtown to the Royal Meridien in search of breakfast (even though it was afternoon) and a color copier which tend to be very hard to come by in the Middle East!

Breakfast was over and the "Friday Family Brunch" was in full swing. Since Friday is the day of congregational prayer in the Arab world, people usually get together with their families for a late breakfast or lunch on Fridays. In the Emirates, they've adopted the American brunch idea..and executed it in local style. There are a few things Americans might recognize like pastries, pancakes, breads, and juices...but the rest is worlds away. Trays full of Indian daals and biryanis, Pakistani specialties and local foods like Machbous, Shwarma, and seafood along with traditional Lebanese mezze give a glimpse into the various cultures that call UAE home.

Since I had just woken up, the idea of the buffet was way too heavy. Instead, I opted for this "light" Lebanese lunch sampler of hummus, labneh, pickles, baba ghanouj and a chicken shwarma sandwich.

This was the view from the restaurant, called "The Opera"'s window:

In addition to satisfying my hunger, quenching my thirst and enabling me to make the first color copies in months, The Meridien also offered traditional Arabian coffee and dates to all of its guests. Finally I got my fix! The coffee was a rich amber color, smooth with some nutty notes, and was definatley more robust and darkly roasted than Saudi coffee..but not anywhere near as thick as Turkish. I'd classify it as a cross between the two. The coffee is served unsweetened, and dates are used to balance the sugar content.

Later that afternoon I went back to my hotel to prepare for my interview with The National's (The UAE's leading English newspaper) Denise Roing. The interview was a lot of fun, and very personal. I originally thought I was going to give a power point presentation on Arab Cuisine and Culture. Instead, I was asked very personal questions on a televised session. Denise asked very insightful questions and I was honored to be asked to participate.

Another surprise that took place was running into my friend Abeir (above right) who is an Egyptian journalist. She and her husband interviewd me years ago in Luxor for an Egyptian newspaper. We ran into each other in Abu Dhabi, where they now live and work, and they interviewed me for an Arabic newspaper there!

After the interview I took advantage of the beautiful dusk skyline to go and see the Sheikh Zayed Mosque - the world's 3rd largest where UAE's former leader Sheikh Zayed is buried. The sprawling white structure is absolutely breataking. It seems to come out of nowhere and shoot up into the deep blue skyline. Slightly reminiscent of the Taj Mahal and the Prophet Mohamed's mosque in Medina, Saudi Arabia, the structure was so beautiful that I actually regretted not being a better photographer so that I could take the kind of pictures that would do it justice. Please go online to Google Images and check them out for yourself.

Free tours are given of the mosque every day - and Abayas and scarves are given to women who would like to enter. I brought my own - a traditional Saudi one from my friend Awatif. Even if it's not prayer time, you will here a very melodic chant of the Qu'ran in the background. There is someone reciting live 24 hours every day in honor of Sheikh Zayed at his mosoleum. By the end of the day I was left with a feeling of overwhelming greatfulness that despite the shortness of the trip, I was able to see and do things that I've been dreaming of - not to mention the surprises! Enjoy this recipe for Fish Machbous if you'd like to transport your taste buds to the Arabian Sea!

Fish and Rice Skillet (Machbous bil Samak) from Arabian Delights: Recipes and Princely Entertaining Ideas by Amy Riolo

Kuwait and the United Arab Emirates are located on the Arabian Sea, and thus its fisherman
have always had access to a continuous supply of fresh fish and seafood. Its traders often brought back spices and influence from Pakistan and Western India as well. Recipes taking their inspiration from the Indian subcontinent have become part of modern Arabian Gulf cuisine. Machbous is a dish made out of mutton,
chicken, or fish served over fragrant rice. It is closely related toIndian biryani. This version is made with fish fillets. Any white fish like tilapia, cod, sole, or haddock will work well with this dish.

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon clarified butter (ghee)

1 onion, diced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 1/2 pounds fish fillets

1 teaspoon garam masala*

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 cup tomato puree

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup basmati rice, soaked in water for 20 minutes, rinsed,

and drained

Preparation:

Heat clarified butter in a large saucepan over medium heat.

Add onion, stir, and sauté until translucent, about 3 to

5 minutes. Stir in garlic. Add fish fillets, garam masala,

and turmeric, and cook fish 3 to 5 minutes per side

until opaque. Add tomato puree and 1 cup water. Stir

gently around the fish to combine.

Season with 1 teaspoon salt and add rice in between the

pieces of fish. Stir rice and sauce together to combine.

Increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat

to low, cover tightly, and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes,

or until rice is tender and fish is cooked through. Taste

and adjust seasonings if necessary.

Remove from heat, keep covered, and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes

before serving. Serve warm.

Serves 4

Abu Dhabi: Day 2 Cooking Demonstrations

2011-03-18T08:02:00.000-04:00

I began the day with 2 seperate kids cooking sessions. The first was a group of elementary schools students from the German School here in Abu Dhabi. The second was a group of children who are home schooled. Despite the fact that their ages ranged from 6-10, they were extremely enthusiastic and excited. I used the opportunity to highlight some recipes from Calabria, Italy (my ancestral homeland) from my latest book, The Mediterranean Diabetes Cookbook. The kids and I made Calabrian Sesame Cookies, Strawberry Mascarpone Parfaits, Penne alla Norma and Peaches in Basil Yogurt Cream. Check out my Facebook page for a video.

Here I am with Valentin - the 10 year old author of Cooking is Cool, along with Chef Khaldoon and Asian culinary expert Mazher.

In the evening I had an adults class, and as you can see from the photo above - there were still many young people present. The local population is made up of a majority of young people- and it's great to see so many of them interested in food, cooking, and books. In this class we made Corsican Prawns with Chickpea Cream and an Apple, Date, and Phyllo Strudel. I had fun meeting people at the booksigning afterwards. I would like to extend a huge thank you to everyone who came to my events - especially the journalists who agreed to interview me until way past bedtime!

Abu Dhabi Day 1

2011-03-16T13:25:00.000-04:00

My first 24 hours in Abu Dhabi have been a blast! Last night Kitab sponsored a reception/dinner for the exhibitors and guests of the book fair. Buffet tables of fresh, delicious Middle Eastern appetizers and hearty basmati rice and meat dishes looked as great as they tasted.

Photo: Last night's reception with Strategic Book Group and World Book representatives

After breakfast this morning I headed to the exhibition center to check out the show kitchen where I'll be demonstrating tomorrow. I was introduced to two fantastic chefs and restauranteurs - Karim Haidar and Robert Arbor (I'll check out their restaurants in New York and Paris and get back to you). Then, we were escorted to a supermarket to complete the shopping for our demos. Surprisingly, we found EVERYTHING we were looking for in 1 stop!

Photos: Views from my hotel room

Photo: Children's Class in the Show Kitchen

Photo: Book fair entrance

Photo: Chef Robert Arbor, me, Chef Karim Haidar

Photo: The 1 stop supermarket

Photo: Downtown Abu Dhabi

Later in the afternoon I decided to check out the Gold Souk - an indoor mall consisting of gold only shops. Sorry - no pictures allowed -but I'm sure you can imagine - everything you've ever dreamed about in gold and more.

Then, I went to the Emirates Palace for its breathtaking views, both inside and out. As I entered the cafe, three musicians were playing traditional Arabic music. I was craving Arabian coffee and felt that it would be the best way to enjoy the entertainment. To my surprise, the cafe only served Italian and Turkish coffees (I love both- but we are in UAE)! I was told if I wanted the Arabian coffee I would have to be served in the reception area. Since that would impair my hearing, I decided to forsake the coffee for the live music, but left a comment that it should be offered on the menu. Arabian coffee is such an intrinsic part of this culture - a symbol of hospitality - an important historical trading commodity, that an Arabian coffee pot is even depicted on the 1 Dirham coin! Why it is so hard to find in Abu Dhabi is beyond me. In Saudi Arabia it is everywhere and if anyone could turn it into a trend, it would be the restaurants in the Emirates!

Photo: Emirate's Palace Lobby

My complaints were soon appeased when I was delivered this beautiful caffe latte complete with artfully crafted foam, a local date, a pistachio filled chocolate and pistachio k'nafeh. Note the glass of water - in the Arab world you are always served water with coffee because coffee can cause dehydration. It's important to drink the water first - and then finish with the coffee. If you finish with the water you are "washing away" the taste of the coffee and the hospitality of the person who offered it to you. This service was worth the 35 dirhams (about $12 US) that I paid for it.

I also ordered the "feathery light scones" which was accompanied with berries, lemon curd, butter, and an assortment of preserves.

My overall impression after exploring Abu Dhabi today is that it is a city in a country which is a sum of many parts. Sights of its downtownn will remind you of lower Manhattan, while the mosques will remind you of India and central Asia. The palm groves call to mind Miami and the highways Los Angeles. The cuisine of Abu Dhabi is the same - different restaurants all serving up a portion of a multi- ethnic melting pot.When combined with the warm local hospitality, business savvy, and oppulent style the parts fuse together in true Emirati fashion.

On the Road to Abu Dhabi

2011-03-15T06:45:00.000-04:00

Today I'm headed to Abu Dhabi! Join me for a series of posts with all the details of the Abu Dhabi International Book Fair.

A little background info....

Modern and serene, after years on the heels of its flashy neighbor Dubai, Abu Dhabi is now a leader in world culinary trends. Even though it is located in the United Arab Emirates, the cuisine of Abu Dhabi is a showcase of the best and most up and coming recipes in the world. A cultural melting pot where more than 40 different nationalities can be found working together at any given time, Abu Dhabi is a true testament to East meets west.

Stay tuned for details on the reception, cooking demos, cultural programs, cutting edge restaurants and cruises......