An Iftaar to Remember

The Mughal emporers of India believed that "A good name for kings is achieved through lofty buildings..." They must have felt the same way about cuisine. In addition to scores of architectural marvels (Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, Pearl Mosque, Badshahi Mosque, etc.) they built, they also left a culinary legacy known to be one of the most intricate, elegant, and balanced in the world. When my friend Dr. Afshan Hashmi and her husband Mustafa invited us for an iftaar (Muslim break-fast meal held at dusk during the month of Ramadan) at their home, I was lucky enough to sample many of these royal recipes.

The Mughals were pfficially declared rulers of India in 1526 and remained in power until the 19th century. Muslim influence in the region, however, began as early as the 8th century, and by the 11th and 12th centuries Persian influences became very strong. Just as the Persian language became the official language of court culture, Persian cuisine was also adapted by the administration. One of the unique aspects of Indian Muslim culture is that it shows a great deal of appreciation to the Hindu culture which represents the majority of the Indian population. Even though beef is not prohibited in the Muslim diet, traditional recipes are beef -free out of respect for the cow's significant role in the Hindu faith. Indian Muslim brides often wear red dresses (in contrast to the majority of the Muslim world which wears white) just like their Hindu neighbors do. Over the years, the mutual exchange between Indian Hindus and Muslims created cultural and artistic motifs unique to India.

Our iftaar meal consisted of Medhu Vada, Aloo Tikki (Potato Cakes - pictured, right) Chicken Eggrolls, Cheese Fritters (called Pakoda) Black Chana Masala (spiced black Chickpeas), Boiled Chana Dal (Yellow Split Peas) Fruit Chaat (Salad), Dahi Vada, Goat Korma (a Mughal braising method in which meat is slowly simmered in yogurt, cream, and fruit preserves creating a luxurious sauce, pictured, left) Rice with Peas, Roti (Indian Bread), Coriander Chutney, Sweet Tamarind Chutney, and Dates (traditional food used to break the fast throughout Muslim world.) Jalebi (a direct interpretation of Persian lacework pattern fritters fried and drenched in sweet syrup - pictured, left). I felt honored to be able to eat such luxurious, delicious, and for the most part, healthful cuisine. After dinner we moved to the living room to enjoy coffee and Indian candies. Afshan brought books to show me the royal costumes of India and architecture. In addition to breaking a fast, I was exposed to a whole new world of flavor, styles, textures and folklore. For the first time in a while, my heart, mind, and spirit were every bit as full as my stomach. To create your own authentic, Indian feast, why not pick up Indian culinary expert Julie Sahni's Classic Indian Cooking? Here's my Arabic version of the Persian Jalebi which are so popular in India from Arabian Delights: Recipes and Princely Entertaining Ideas from the Arabian Peninsula.

Delicate Fried Dough Windows with Syrup (Mushabbak)

Mushabbak means “windows” in Arabic. This desert is made by pouring batter into pretzel-like shapes, frying them in hot oil, and then drenching them in sweet syrup. The holes in the pretzel shapes are considered the “windows.” Indian Muslims eat these covered in milk (like cereal) during the pre-dawn breakfast during Ramadan.

Ingredients: For the syrup: 2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 strip lemon peel Red food coloring, if desired For the batter: 1 cup unbleached, all-purpose flour 1/2 cup cornmeal 1 tablespoon active dry yeast 2 cups canola or corn oil, for frying

• Preparation: Prepare the syrup by combining the sugar, 1 cup water, lemon juice, and lemon peel in a medium saucepan.
• Bring to a boil, stirring, over medium heat.
• Once sugar dissolves, stop stirring.
• Reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes.
• Remove from heat to cool.
• Pour 1/4 cup of syrup into a small bowl.
• Add a few drops of red food coloring and stir well. Set aside. To make batter, combine flour, cornmeal, yeast, and 1 cup water in a large bowl.
• Mix well to form a dough.
• If dough seems too thick (it should be slightly thicker than pancake batter), add more water, a tablespoon at a time.
• Pour oil into a large frying pan over medium heat. Heat oil to 165°F. Spoon the dough into a pastry bag fitted with a smooth, round metal tip.
• With your finger on the end of the tip, using your hands on the side of the pastry bag, press the dough down to the bottom of the bag and twist the top of the bag to keep pressure on the dough.
• Carefully pipe dough into oil, squeezing it into pretzel-like shapes. Fry for about 2 minutes per side, or until golden. With a large, slotted spoon, remove from hot oil onto dishes lined with paper towels.
• Pour syrup into a large bowl. Place Mushabbak in syrup and turn to coat.
• If desired, dip part of window in colored syrup, so that 1/2 of window is red and 1/2 is natural colored.
• Repeat until all dough is used. Serve hot or at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.